How to Build and Customize a Container Pool

sheldon trieb • November 16, 2025

Building a shipping container pool is an exciting way to achieve a modern, eco-friendly backyard oasis. By repurposing a steel shipping container, you can create a stylish swimming pool that’s both durable and highly customizable. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explain how to build and customize a container pool step by step. We’ll cover everything from initial planning and site preparation to structural modifications, waterproofing, plumbing, and finishing touches. You’ll also learn about design options, cost considerations, pros and cons, permitting requirements, material selection, and troubleshooting common issues. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or planning to hire professionals for certain tasks, this guide will help you approach your container pool project with confidence and strong know-how

Building a container pool requires careful engineering and attention to detail, but the reward is a unique swimming pool that can be installed faster than a traditional pool and even moved if you relocate. The guide uses a hybrid DIY/professional approach – meaning we’ll highlight where you can do it yourself and where it’s wise to involve licensed experts (like structural welders or electricians). By the end, you’ll have a clear roadmap to transform a standard shipping container into a safe, attractive pool that fits your budget and vision. Let’s dive in!

Planning Your Shipping Container Pool Project

Proper planning is essential before cutting steel or breaking ground. In this phase, you’ll make key decisions and ensure you meet all requirements. Here’s what to consider at the planning stage:

Determine Your Goals and Budget: 

Decide early on how you intend to use the pool (lap swimming, family recreation, plunge pool, etc.) and how much you’re willing to spend. Container pools can range widely in price depending on size and features (often $35,000–$65,000 installed on average, though DIY approaches can be less). Establishing a budget will guide your choices on size, finishes, and optional extras.

Choose Pool Size and Container Type: 

Shipping containers come primarily in lengths of 20 feet (approx. 6 m) or 40 feet (12 m), with standard widths around 8 feet (2.4 m). High-cube containers have extra height (9.5 ft exterior) which can allow a deeper pool or space for equipment. Determine what container size suits your space and usage. A larger 40′ container offers a full-length lap pool feel, while a 20′ container makes a compact plunge pool. Remember that container pools have fixed widths (about 8 feet inside), which is narrower than many traditional pools. If you want more width, some advanced projects join two containers side-by-side (which requires extensive modification and reinforcement).

Above-Ground vs. In-Ground Design: 

Decide if you’ll install the container fully above ground, partially sunken, or fully in-ground. Above-ground installations are simpler (no heavy excavation) and allow the pool to be more portable. In-ground installations involve burying the container, which offers a sleeker look and easier access (no external pool walls to climb). In-ground pools also benefit from natural insulation by the earth, helping regulate water temperature. However, burying a container requires proper structural reinforcement to handle soil pressure and thorough exterior waterproofing to prevent corrosion underground. We’ll detail these considerations later.

Site Selection and Space:

Evaluate your property for the best pool location. Choose a level area with adequate clearance. Ensure there’s room not just for the container (e.g. a 40′ x 8′ footprint for a 40 ft unit) but also for access around it, a deck or patio if desired, and any required safety fence. Check that you have a clear path for delivering the container to the site (craning a container into a tight backyard may be needed). Consider sun exposure (for warming the water or solar panels) and proximity to the house (for plumbing, electrical hookups, and convenience).

Consult Professionals Early: 

Even if you plan a DIY build, it’s smart to consult a structural engineer and other professionals at the planning stage. An engineer can assess the container’s structural integrity and advise on required reinforcements (especially if cutting large openings or planning an in-ground install). A pool contractor or experienced builder can provide input on plumbing layout and filtration. Getting expert advice upfront helps avoid costly mistakes in design.

Permits and Regulations: 

Treat a container pool like any permanent pool when it comes to local regulations. Nearly all jurisdictions will require a building permit for installing a swimming pool (whether above-ground or in-ground) – shipping container pools are usually no exception. Research your city or county’s requirements for pool permits, inspections, and safety features. Common rules include: mandatory safety barriers (fencing at least 4 ft high with self-closing gate), possibly pool alarms or covers, adherence to setback distances from property lines, and electrical code compliance for pool equipment. Some areas may have specific guidelines for above-ground pools versus in-ground pools; clarify how a container pool is categorized. It’s wise to contact your local building department early to ensure your plans meet code. We cover permitting in more detail in the next section.

Timeline and Season: 

Plan the build timing. Constructing a container pool can be quicker than a traditional concrete pool – often a matter of weeks once you have the container and materials, since much work (cutting, lining) can be done off-site. Still, factor in any lead times: obtaining permits, ordering the container, hiring professionals, and potential weather delays if doing site work outdoors. Aim to finish major construction before your swimming season.


By carefully planning the size, location, design, and legal requirements of your container pool, you set the stage for a smoother build. With a clear plan and permits in hand, you’re ready to break ground (or rather,
prepare the ground) for your pool.

Permitting and Safety Regulations

Before you start construction, address permits and safety codes to ensure your project is legal and safe. Building a pool without the proper permits can result in fines or an order to remove the pool, so this step is critical.

Obtain Necessary Building Permits: 

Check with your municipality what permits are required for a swimming pool. Generally, you will need a residential pool construction permit. Submit plans that show the pool’s dimensions, location on the property, and details of safety features (fence, alarms, etc.). If you are doing structural modifications to the container (cutting walls, etc.), that might be covered under the pool permit or require an additional structural permit – clarify this with the authorities. In many places, an engineer’s or contractor’s stamp on plans may be needed due to the structural nature of the project.

Pool Barrier Requirements: 

Virtually all local codes require a secure barrier around pools to prevent unsupervised access by children. This typically means a fence of a specified minimum height (often 4 feet or 1.2 m) with self-latching gates. The Texas regulations, for example, mandate a locking gate and a fence around the container pool area. Ensure your design includes a compliant fence or other approved barrier (some areas allow a powered safety cover as an alternative). If the container pool is above ground with high walls, you might still need a fence around the ladder or an enclosure – verify local rules.

Electrical and Plumbing Inspections: 

Pools usually require electrical work (for pumps, lights, heaters) that must be done to code by a licensed electrician and inspected. Plan for a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protected circuit for all pool electrical equipment, as required by code. Any plumbing that connects to the household water supply or sewer (like filling or draining the pool) may also need permits or backflow prevention – discuss with inspectors if applicable. Having a professional handle the electrical hookup is highly recommended for safety.

Setbacks and Zoning: 

Ensure the pool’s placement complies with zoning bylaws. There are often rules on how far the pool must be from property lines, septic systems, or buildings. Above-ground container pools might be considered structures that need to meet accessory structure setbacks. Verify these distances in your permit application to avoid having to move the pool later.

Safety Accessories: 

Plan to include required safety accessories. These may include pool ladders or steps that meet code (and are removable or lockable for above-ground pools when not in use), pool alarms on doors/gates leading to the pool area, and possibly a certified pool cover. Many jurisdictions require at least one additional safety measure besides the fence – e.g. an alarm that sounds if the surface of the water is disturbed. Check which safety measures are mandated locally and incorporate them into your build.

Environmental and Soil Considerations: 

If you plan an in-ground container pool, some locales might require a soil study or additional permit for excavation. Also, ensure that modifying drainage on your property (since you’ll pour a slab or footings) is okay – you might need to show that water runoff won’t impact neighbors. In certain areas, removing or altering large structures may also need permission (less common for residential pools, but be mindful).

Tip: It can be very helpful to hire a professional pool installer or contractor just for the permitting process and initial guidance, even if you do much of the work DIY. They are familiar with local pool codes and can help get your plans approved. At minimum, carefully study the pool regulations provided by your city/state (many have online guides). 

Taking care of permits and safety requirements up front will give you peace of mind and prevent legal hassles. Once approved, you can move forward knowing your container pool will be safe and compliant.

Site Preparation and Foundation

With planning and permits sorted, it’s time to prepare the site where your container pool will sit. Proper site prep and foundation work will ensure your pool is level, stable, and well-drained for the long term. 

1. Clearing and Leveling: 

Begin by clearing the chosen area of any debris, rocks, or vegetation. Mark out the footprint of the pool plus extra working space around it. You’ll need a completely level base to support the container. Use stakes and a builder’s level or laser level to check grade. In many cases, you’ll excavate a few inches down to create a level sub-base. Remove soft topsoil and compact the sub-grade soil to prevent future settling. If the pool is going partially or fully in-ground, you’ll need to excavate a pit to the required depth (account for container height plus any base material). Make the hole slightly larger than the container dimensions to allow working room and backfilling. Important: Call utility locator services before any digging to avoid hitting buried lines! 

2. Base and Foundation Options: 

Shipping containers are designed to sit on corner points, but for a pool we want solid support along the length and middle as well. There are a few foundation approaches:

  • Concrete Pad: Pouring a reinforced concrete slab the size of the container footprint (or slightly larger) is an excellent foundation. A 4-inch (10 cm) thick slab on compacted gravel, with rebar reinforcement, provides a perfectly level and stable platform. This is recommended especially for above-ground installations. Ensure the slab is truly level and cured before placing the container.
  • Concrete Footings or Piers: If you don’t want a full slab, you can use concrete footings at the four corners and midpoints of the container. For example, dig and pour six or more small pad footings (at corners and midway along each long side). The container will sit on these load points. Verify spacing with the container’s structural beams. This method saves concrete, but you must ensure all footings are level with each other.
  • Compacted Gravel Bed: Some DIY builders simply use a thick layer (6-8 inches) of compacted crushed stone or gravel as a base. If well-compacted and leveled, a gravel bed can support the container and also provides drainage. This can work for above-ground pools or partially buried pools. It’s wise to use angular gravel that locks together, and compact in layers. You may still want to add concrete pavers or blocks under the container corners to prevent them sinking into gravel over time.
  • Existing Concrete Surface: If you have an existing patio or driveway of adequate size, it might serve as a base. Verify it’s level and can bear the weight (a filled 8x20 pool can weigh 40,000+ lbs or ~18 tons of water plus container). Avoid placing on old cracked concrete without reinforcement.

No matter the foundation type, waterproof and protect any concrete that will be in contact with the container steel (use a moisture barrier or bitumen paint on the concrete where the steel will touch, to reduce corrosion risk). Also consider putting a thin isolation layer like heavy-duty plastic sheeting or rubber strips between the container and concrete, to avoid steel-on-concrete contact which can trap moisture. 

3. Drainage Considerations: 

Plan for how water will drain around the pool area:

  • If above ground, grade the surrounding ground to slope away from the container so rainwater doesn’t pool at the base. You might install French drains or gravel trenches around the perimeter.
  • If in-ground, drainage is critical. You do not want groundwater accumulating around the buried container, as it could rust the exterior or even exert pressure when the pool is empty. Ensure there’s gravel backfill and possibly a perimeter drain (weeping tile/French drain) around the container leading water away. If you have high groundwater, you might even need a sump pump system. Also, never bury a container pool without proper reinforcement – containers are strong on the corners and edges, but the walls can buckle under lateral soil pressure if not adequately braced. We will discuss reinforcement shortly.

4. Access and Setting the Container: 

Ensure you have a plan to get the container onto the prepared base. Often this involves a crane or boom truck to lift and position the container pool. The foundation should be ready and accessible to that equipment. Double-check overhead clearances (no power lines or tree limbs in the way). Mark the exact placement so the crane operators know where to set it down. If using piers/footings, have guiding blocks or angle iron in place to help align the container on them.

5. Backfilling (for In-Ground Installs): 

If you are dropping the container into an excavation, backfilling must be done carefully. Usually you’ll partially fill the pool with water at the same time as backfilling around it, to equalize pressure. Use free-draining material like gravel or a sand-gravel mix to fill around the sides of the container, in layers. Do not use soil with a lot of clay that can expand or hold water. Compact gently in layers to provide support but avoid denting the container walls. It’s often best not to fully bury the container’s top – leaving a few inches above grade can prevent runoff from flowing straight into the pool and also makes it easier to secure a cover or barrier at the surface. 

By investing time in solid site preparation, you’ll create a foundation that keeps your container pool level and stable for years to come. A well-prepared base and drainage system is key to preventing future issues like shifting, settling, or corrosion from standing water.

Selecting and Preparing the Shipping Container

The heart of your pool is, of course, the shipping container itself. Selecting a suitable container and doing some preparatory work on it is the next major step. 

1. Sourcing the Container: 

Look for a container that meets your size needs and is in good condition. Options include:

  • Standard (8 ft x 8.5 ft) or High-Cube (8 ft x 9.5 ft): High-cube containers give extra interior height, which can be useful if you want a deeper pool or space above the water for accessories. Many container pools use high-cubes to allow a water depth of around 4–5 feet and still have some wall height above the waterline.
  • New “One-Trip” Container: These are containers that have been used only once for shipping. They are practically new, with minimal corrosion or damage. While more expensive than used containers, one-trip containers provide the best starting condition (intact paint, no rust patches) and will last longer with less prep work.
  • Used Container: A used container can save money, but inspect it carefully. Choose a container in sound structural shape – no large dents or bent sections, and minimal rust. Surface rust can be cleaned and treated, but avoid any with deep corrosion (especially on the floor or lower walls) as this can compromise integrity. Also ensure it was used for harmless cargo; occasionally containers carried chemicals that left residues. It’s wise to get one that was used for general goods or get it steam-cleaned if unsure. Inspect for hazardous materials or odors and have it professionally cleaned if needed.
  • Open-Top Container: Standard containers have a steel roof, which will be cut away for a pool. Another variant is an open-top container (with a removable tarpaulin roof). However, these are less common and not usually high-cube. Most builds will use a regular container and simply cut off the top.

2. Delivery and Initial Placement: 

Have the container delivered to your site (or to a workshop if you plan to do modifications off-site). On delivery, inspect the container thoroughly. Check the flooring (typically marine plywood on steel crossmembers) – it should be solid since it will become the pool floor. Also check that the doors operate; even if you won’t use the container doors in the final design, they might be useful during construction or for equipment access. 

If working on it in an open area, set the container on temporary supports (e.g., sturdy blocks) to lift it a bit off the ground. This makes it easier to work on the underside and around bottom edges for coating later. 

3. Stripping and Cleaning: 

Remove any fittings or flooring treatments not needed. For example, shipping containers often have thick plywood floors that may be treated with pesticides. If you plan to keep the wood floor as the pool bottom, ensure it’s sealed or remove/encapsulate any chemicals. Many builders actually leave the plywood floor in place and put the pool liner over it – it provides a nice smooth base. Others remove it to expose steel underneath if doing full steel fabrication. Vacuum and clean out the interior thoroughly. Grind off any rust spots inside and out down to bare metal. This is the time to do a full rust treatment: wire-brush or sand any corroded areas, then apply a rust converter or primer to stop further oxidation. 

Also, remove the container doors if they’re not part of your design. Taking the doors off can give you a large opening to work through. You can always weld that end shut or frame it for a window later. Some people keep one door operable if they want it to double as a giant “skimmer” opening or access panel – that’s a custom choice. 

4. Planning Cutouts and Modifications: 

Mark out where you will need to cut the container. Typical modifications include:

  • Removing the Roof: In almost all cases, you will cut away the entire steel roof of the container to open it up for the pool. The container’s corner posts and top rails will remain to maintain structure. Removing the roof may weaken the container slightly (the roof sheet does add some rigidity), but the top side rails and end frames usually handle loads. If you remove all of the roof including top side beams, you must reinforce the top perimeter after (e.g., weld on a new beam).
  • Side Openings/Windows: Many custom container pools feature a window on the side – often a long acrylic panel – for a unique viewing experience. If you plan an underwater window, mark that section on the sidewall. Remember, any large opening in the side will require reinforcement around its edges (framing it like a door frame with steel tubing) to keep the wall strong. Also consider how you’ll waterproof the window installation (we’ll discuss under waterproofing).
  • Entry/Exit Cutouts: If you want built-in steps or a shallow lounge area, you might cut a portion of the top of the wall down. For example, cutting out a section of a side wall to create a recess where stairs can be installed, or to act as a skimmer area. Mark those.
  • Skimmer and Jet Holes: Plan where the skimmer(s), return jets, and any drains will go. Usually, a rectangular hole for an above-ground pool skimmer is cut into the upper side wall. Return jet holes (for water flowing back in from the pump) are circular and smaller, typically a couple inches in diameter, cut in the sidewall a foot or so below water line. If using a bottom drain, mark a circle in the floor. (One builder avoided a bottom drain due to fear of shifting, but later retrofitted a proper wall skimmer for efficiency. Generally, installing at least a wall skimmer and a couple of returns is recommended for good circulation.)

5. Cutting the Container: 

Cutting steel is a job that should be done with the right tools and safety precautions. A cutoff saw (handheld circular saw with metal-cutting blade), angle grinder, or oxy-acetylene torch are common ways to cut container steel. If you don’t have experience cutting thick steel, consider hiring a professional welder/metalworker for this phase. They will make clean cuts and can also weld on reinforcements as needed. Wear proper protection (face shield, gloves, hearing protection) if DIY cutting – container steel is around 2–3 mm thick corten steel, which is tough. 

Cut along your marked lines. For the roof, you can cut it into sections to remove piece by piece. Be cautious as large panels can flex or fall when freed. For window or door openings in the sides, it’s wise to weld temporary braces across the cutout area before cutting, to prevent any warping as you remove material. After cutting the opening, you’ll replace those with permanent frames. 

6. Structural Reinforcement: 

Once the cutouts are made, reinforce the container structure:

  • Around Openings: Weld rectangular steel tubing or I-beam sections around the perimeter of any large opening (windows, door cutouts, etc.) to restore rigidity. Essentially, you’re creating a new frame around the hole. This ensures the container walls don’t flex with water pressure. For example, after cutting a side for a window, you might weld a 4″ steel channel around the edges of the hole. Similarly, if you cut the top edge down to lower one wall, reinforce that cut edge with a welded steel flat bar or beam.
  • Wall Bracing: Containers are designed to be very strong at the corners but the long side walls can flex outward under pressure (water will push outwards). If your pool will be above ground and filled, adding extra wall bracing is smart. This can be done by welding vertical stiffeners on the outside of the long walls – e.g., weld a few steel columns or angle irons spaced along the wall to help it resist bulging. Another method is to weld a steel truss or tension rod across the top of the container opening to prevent the long sides from spreading apart under load. Many container pools hold shape fine thanks to the corrugated steel walls, but additional reinforcement is cheap insurance.
  • Floor and Corner Reinforcement: Typically, the container floor (with its steel cross-members and plywood) can easily support the water weight when supported evenly. If using point footings underneath, ensure the steel cross-members are adequate – you might weld additional cross beams if needed under heavy load points (like under internal steps or spa areas). If burying the container, reinforcing the exterior with ribs or even a rebar cage can help it handle earth pressure (though if filled with water, internal pressure counters external soil pressure pretty well).

After reinforcement, the container structure should be as strong or stronger than originally, now ready to become a pool shell. 

7. Corrosion Protection: 

Before moving on to the next stages, coat the container’s exterior with a rust-inhibiting paint or coating, especially if any raw steel is exposed from cutting/welding. Use a marine-grade epoxy paint or a cold galvanizing compound on welded seams. Since shipping containers are made of corten steel which resists corrosion to a degree, you have a good base, but extra protective coating is essential for a decades-long lifespan. If burying, you may even apply bituminous waterproofing on the outside. 

At this stage, you have essentially a big open-top steel box, cut and reinforced to your desired configuration. Now it’s ready for the critical steps that truly make it a pool: waterproofing the interior and installing the plumbing and filtration system.

Waterproofing and Pool Lining

The inside of a shipping container must be completely waterproofed and lined to hold water like a pool. Shipping containers are watertight in the sense of keeping rain out, but they are not designed to hold water pressure internally – joints could leak and the steel would rapidly corrode if constantly submerged. Thus, a reliable pool liner or coating is crucial. 

1. Seal All Joints and Seams: 

Before adding a main liner, go through the container’s interior seams. This includes the corners, wall-floor joints, and any welds or cut edges. Use a high-quality sealant (like a polyurethane or marine sealant) or epoxy putty on all seams. For example, apply sealant along the entire length of the floor-wall seams and where any two panels meet. Pay special attention to any penetrations you made for plumbing – around skimmer openings, jet holes, etc. These should be welded closed around pipes or sealed with bulkhead fittings, then further sealed with silicone or pool caulk. The goal is to eliminate any path for water to reach the steel container shell. Even a tiny gap can seep and cause rust. 

2. Choose a Lining Method: 

There are several options to line the container pool, each with pros and cons:

PVC Pool Liner: 

A flexible vinyl liner (PVC material) is a common solution. This is similar to how many above-ground and in-ground vinyl pools are lined. A custom liner can be ordered to fit the interior dimensions of the container. Vinyl liners are durable, relatively easy to install, and come in various colors/patterns. They’re also one of the more affordable options. You’ll need to ensure the interior surfaces are smooth (line with foam padding or sand any sharp points) to avoid punctures. Proper installation is key to avoid wrinkles and leaks.

EPDM or Rubber Liner: 

EPDM rubber liners are another flexible liner option. EPDM is a synthetic rubber often used in pond liners. It’s extremely durable and UV resistant. It can be cut to fit and seamed with adhesive. EPDM tends to be thicker and heavier than vinyl. It’s a good DIY option for irregular shapes since it’s like installing a giant rubber sheet inside the container.

Fiberglass Coating/Insert: 

Some container pool manufacturers use a fiberglass lining – essentially coating the inside with fiberglass-reinforced resin to create a seamless shell, or dropping in a preformed fiberglass shell. Fiberglass provides a smooth, long-lasting finish and added structural strength. However, applying fiberglass is a skilled task requiring resin application and proper curing, often done by professionals. If you can source a fiberglass pool shell that fits inside the container, that could be an option (though usually container pools custom-fabricate these).

Polyurea or Spray Coatings: 

Polyurea coatings or similar spray-on waterproofing can be applied to the steel interior. These are industrial coatings that create a tough, rubberized waterproof layer bonded to the metal. They cure fast and are very durable (used in commercial pools, tank linings, etc.). This method typically requires professional application with special equipment, and it can be costly – but it yields a seamless result. A similar approach is using marine-grade epoxy paint in multiple layers; while epoxy paint alone might not be long-term as thick liners, some DIYers have had success with pool epoxy paints (recoating every few years as needed).

Tiling: 

A high-end option is to install tiles inside the container pool. This involves adding a layer (like a mortar bed or board) and tiling over it as you would a concrete pool. While tiles can create a beautiful finish, it’s labor-intensive and you must ensure the structure is very rigid (to avoid tile cracking). You’d still need a waterproof membrane behind the tiles. This is less common due to complexity but possible for small sections or decorative touch.

Hybrid Approaches: 

You might do a combination – for example, some DIY builders first coat the interior with a rubberized sealant (like Sani-Tred or similar pool sealant) for a baseline waterproof layer, then also install a vinyl liner for redundancy. Using a marine epoxy + liner combo ensures even if the liner gets a small tear, the epoxy undercoat protects the metal.

3. Wall and Floor Preparation: 

Depending on liner choice, prepare surfaces accordingly:

  • If using a drop-in flexible liner, line the walls and floor with a liner underlayment or foam padding. This is a soft material (felt or foam sheets) that cushions the liner and prevents it from rubbing on metal. It also gives a nicer feel underfoot. Tape or glue the padding to cover all interior surfaces.
  • If using coatings, ensure the metal is clean, dry, and primed as needed. You may need to sandblast or at least thoroughly sand the interior for best adhesion of epoxy or polyurea coatings. Then apply per product instructions (often multiple coats).
  • For fiberglass, you might first coat the interior with a layer of resin, then lay fiberglass mat and more resin, building up a new inner shell. Fiberglass application should be consistent to avoid any weak spots.

4. Lining Installation: 

Install your chosen liner:

  • Vinyl/EPDM liner: Typically, the liner will be custom cut and seamed to fit the rectangular shape. It will drape over the edges. You’ll need to attach it at the top edge of the container – usually with a liner coping or track mounted to the top of the container walls. For above-ground pools, there are coping strips that hold the liner in place. Ensure you have the liner manufactured with positions for skimmer and jet holes (usually slightly undersized holes that you cut out during install once aligned). The skimmer and return fittings will sandwich the liner, creating a seal. Work out wrinkles and smooth the liner as you fill a bit of water. This process can be tricky; having a professional pool liner installer help could be worthwhile to get a perfect fit.
  • Coatings: If spraying polyurea or painting epoxy, follow safety guidelines (respirator, ventilation) and apply evenly. These often cure quickly. Make sure to get into all corners and seams. After curing, inspect for any pinholes or misses and touch up as needed. A light color coating is preferable so you can see the water clarity and any debris easily.
  • Fiberglass: Let each layer of fiberglass cure fully and sand any rough spots. After final gelcoat, it should be a glossy, continuous surface.

5. Special Areas – Windows and Attachments: 

If you cut a side window, that opening now needs a transparent panel that can withstand water pressure. Usually, thick acrylic (plexiglass) or tempered glass is used as the viewing window. Mounting it involves:

  • Framing the opening with flanges.
  • Using a high-strength aquarium-grade silicone or gasket.
  • Bolting the acrylic panel in place with a metal frame from outside. Ensure it’s completely watertight. (This is a critical structural piece – the acrylic must be thick enough for the span; e.g., a long side window might use 1-inch thick acrylic or more.)
  • It’s wise to water-test this window seal thoroughly before filling the whole pool.
    Likewise, any penetrations for lights (if you add pool lights) need to be properly sealed with the manufacturer’s gaskets.

6. Testing for Leaks: 

After the liner or coating is in place, it’s time to fill the pool partially for a leak test. Before hooking up all plumbing, you can fill the pool to a few inches below the skimmer level and let it sit for a day. Inspect all around the exterior for any sign of water seepage. Check the ground under the container for dampness. If you detect a leak, identify the source and fix it now (patch the liner or re-seal a seam). It’s much easier to address leaks before the pool is completely finished and full. 

To summarize, waterproofing is one of the most crucial steps. The liner or coating is what truly makes your container a functional pool rather than a leaky metal box. Take your time to do it right and don’t cut corners on materials here. A properly lined container pool will hold water without issues and protect the steel structure from rusting (which would occur if water got through to the metal). With the interior now watertight, you’re ready to set up the plumbing and filtration that will keep your pool water clean.

Plumbing and Filtration Systems

A container pool needs a circulation and filtration system just like any other pool to maintain clean and healthy water. In this section, we’ll break down the plumbing components and installation in your container pool. 

1. Pool Plumbing Overview: 

The basic elements include:

  • Skimmer: Draws water from the surface to the pump, capturing leaves/debris in a basket. For container pools, a common approach is installing an above-ground pool skimmer unit on the side wall. Skimmers are usually placed at water surface level on a long side, ideally downwind (to catch floating debris that blow across).
  • Main Drain (optional): A drain at the bottom of the pool helps circulate lower water and assists in draining the pool. Some container pools include one or two floor drains, but others omit them to avoid cutting the floor. If included, plumb them to the pump suction with proper anti-entrapment covers (following safety standards). If omitted, ensure the skimmer and returns create enough circulation or use a vacuum port for floor cleaning.
  • Returns/Jets: These are the inlets where filtered water flows back into the pool. Typically, you’ll have 2 or more return jets in the pool walls, a foot or two below the waterline, pointing in a direction that promotes circular water movement.
  • Pump: The electric pump draws water from the pool (skimmer/main drain) and pushes it through the filter and back out the returns.
  • Filter: Removes fine particles from the water. Common types are sand filters, cartridge filters, or DE filters. Choose a filter size appropriate for your pool volume (a small container pool might use a 50–100 sq ft cartridge filter or a 19″ sand filter, for example).
  • Heater (optional): If you want a heated pool, include a heater in-line after the filter. Options are electric heat pump, electric resistance heater, gas heater, or even solar panels. Container pools being smaller volume heat up quickly but also can lose heat through steel walls, so insulation and a heater can extend your swimming season.
  • Sanitization: Plan how you’ll sanitize the water (chlorine, saltwater system, mineral ionizer, etc.). This isn’t plumbing per se, but for example, installing a saltwater chlorinator cell in the return line if you go saltwater, or an in-line chlorinator for tablets.

2. Pipe Materials: 

Use PVC piping (schedule 40 PVC is standard for pool plumbing). For underground sections (if any), use PVC rated for burial. Typically 1.5” or 2” diameter pipes are used for pools. Larger diameter reduces resistance and is better for pump efficiency – a small container pool might manage with 1.5”, but if in doubt, 2” for the main lines is great (as one DIY builder learned, too small an inlet can strain the pump). Use PVC solvent cement and primer for all joints, and allow proper cure times. 

3. Installing Skimmer and Returns: 

If you cut out for a skimmer, mount the skimmer body in that opening. Most skimmers will bolt to the wall with a faceplate that sandwiches the liner. Tighten it evenly to ensure the gasket seals around the edges (no leaks). For returns, you’ll have return jet fittings that also sandwich the liner – usually a threaded body goes through the wall hole, with gaskets on both sides, and a locknut on the outside. Seal threads with Teflon tape. Aim the jet eyeballs inward and slightly downward to circulate water thoroughly. 

If you did not pre-cut return holes, you can still add them by drilling through the steel (using a hole saw the size of the fitting). Just be sure to seal the exposed metal. Alternatively, some above-ground pool plumbing kits just hang over the side, but a through-wall fitting looks cleaner. 

4. Pump and Filter Location: 

Decide where to locate the equipment. You’ll need a flat area to place the pump, filter, and any heater or chlorinator. This can be:

  • Right next to the container (perhaps hidden behind a short wall or plants).
  • In a small shed or box (many build an equipment box for noise reduction and protection from weather).
  • Or even at the end inside the container’s original door area – for instance, some leave the last few feet of a 40′ container as a “pump room” separated by a bulkhead wall. However, this reduces swimming length and requires watertight separation.

Keep the pump close to the pool to minimize pipe length and head loss (within 10-20 feet ideally). Ensure the pump and electrical components are protected from rain and splash. Plumb from the skimmer and drains to the pump inlet (these lines should have valves so you can isolate each suction line). From pump, go to filter, then to heater (if any), then return line splits to the multiple returns. Include valves on return lines if you want to balance flow between jets or have the option to isolate any feature. 

5. Plumbing Tips:

  • Unions: Use union fittings near the pump and other equipment. These allow easy disconnection for maintenance or winterizing.
  • Check Valve: If you have any uphill sections or a heater, consider a check valve to prevent backflow (especially if using a heater, to protect it from chlorine backflow when off).
  • Flexible PVC vs Rigid: Flexible PVC hose can simplify connections (fewer elbows), but be sure it’s rated for burial if used underground. Standard rigid PVC pipe is more common and durable for long runs.
  • Support Pipes: Clamp or strap pipes so they don’t hang off fittings and stress them. Where pipes go through the container wall, use bulkhead fittings or a sealed conduit to avoid sharp edges on PVC.

6. Filtration and Circulation Considerations: 

Because container pools are smaller, achieving good circulation is a bit easier than a large pool, but you want to avoid dead spots:

  • Place returns at opposite end from the skimmer if possible, to push water toward the skimmer.
  • You can also add an aerator or fountain fitting on a return for fun and to improve circulation (totally optional).
  • Water volume in, say, an 8x20x4 ft pool is about 38,000 liters (~10,000 gallons). Choose a pump that can turn over the volume in about 6-8 hours for good filtration. A 1 HP pool pump is often sufficient for such a size, though energy-efficient variable speed pumps are even better (you can run them low most of the time and save electricity).
  • Include a drainage outlet (waste line) or plan for how you will drain water if needed (e.g., a hose spigot tee’d off after pump to pump water out, or use a submersible pump when you need to fully drain).

7. Testing the Plumbing: 

Once all pipes and equipment are connected, do a test run before the pool is completely finished:

  • Leave the pool water at mid-skimmer level, prime the pump, and run the system.
  • Check for leaks in all pipe joints and around fittings. Tighten or re-seal any dripping connections.
  • Ensure the skimmer is pulling water and the returns are flowing well. Adjust eyeball angles if needed.
  • Check the filter pressure to see it’s in normal range and backwash if using a sand filter to confirm that function.
  • If using a heater, test that it fires up or the heat pump runs, and monitor water temperature rise.

Running the system for a day or two will also further confirm that your pool shell is leak-free and that all equipment works reliably. A properly installed system will keep your water crystal clear and safe with minimal fuss. 

At this point, the container has essentially become a working swimming pool! The remaining steps will focus on finishing touches, customization, and ensuring longevity.

Insulation and Temperature Control

One aspect that’s especially important with container pools (which are made of steel) is insulation. Steel walls can conduct heat out of the water quickly, meaning without insulation your pool might lose warmth faster than a traditional pool. Also, warm outside air can heat the steel and water in summer, and contact between warm water and cooler steel can create condensation. Here’s how to manage these issues:

  • Exterior Insulation: If your container pool is above-ground or partially above, consider insulating the outside of the container walls. A common method is spray-application of closed-cell polyurethane foam on the outer walls. Closed-cell spray foam acts as both insulation and an added moisture barrier. Even a 1–2 inch layer can make a significant difference (providing roughly R-6 to R-12 insulation). This can be done after all welding and structural work is complete. It will later be covered by any exterior finish or cladding for appearance. If burying the container, exterior spray foam is highly recommended before backfilling to prevent soil contact and insulate the pool from cold ground.
  • Interior Insulation: If not using external insulation, another tactic is lining the interior with insulation boards before the liner goes in. For instance, panels of XPS foam can be attached to the walls and floor, then the liner goes over them. This insulates the water from the steel. However, be cautious: if using a soft vinyl liner, you don’t want the foam panels to create edges or spots that could rub through. Usually, a thin foam or felt underlayment is used anyway for liner comfort – you can get insulated versions.
  • Underside Insulation: Don’t forget the bottom. If above ground, insulating the container’s underside (e.g., spray foaming beneath the floor) helps retain heat. If on a slab, there’s not much you can do after the fact, but insulating the slab underneath before pouring (with foam board) is an option for in-ground builds.
  • Covering to Prevent Heat Loss: One of the best ways to maintain water temperature is using a pool cover when the pool is not in use. A solar blanket (thermal cover) on the water surface can reduce heat loss overnight dramatically and also keep evaporation (and chemical loss) down. Since container pools are often smaller, covering them is relatively easy and inexpensive. You could also invest in a retractable cover or an automated slatted cover which doubles as a safety cover – many options exist.
  • Heating Systems: If you want a warm pool, plan a heating solution. Options:
  • Electric Heat Pump: Very efficient in moderate climates; it extracts heat from the air to warm the water. Slower to heat initially but maintains temperature well.
  • Gas Heater: Propane or natural gas heaters can heat water quickly, good for on-demand use or colder climates, but have higher fuel cost.
  • Electric Resistance Heater: Simple but usually only practical for small pools or spas due to high electrical usage.
  • Solar Heating: You can run black hose coils or roof-mounted solar panels that use the sun’s energy to heat the water. This is eco-friendly and zero operating cost after setup, but depends on sunny weather and space for the panels.
  • Some container pool owners skip a heater if they mainly use it in hot summer, while others realize heating a steel pool without insulation can be inefficient (one DIY’er reported essentially “heating the outdoors” when trying a gas heater on an uninsulated pool). So, if heating, definitely insulate well or you’ll lose much of that heat.
  • Temperature Moderation: Interestingly, an in-ground container pool benefits from the earth’s thermal mass – it will stay cooler in extreme heat and warmer in cool nights due to the ground’s relatively stable temperature. Above-ground pools can fluctuate more. Insulation helps buffer those swings. Also note, leaving some water depth below ground and insulating above-ground portions can provide the best of both.
  • Condensation Concerns: Warm water against cold steel can lead to condensation on the outside of the container, which could cause rust over time. Insulation largely prevents this by keeping the steel closer to water temp. Also, maintaining water chemistry (especially pH) will protect metal parts from any corrosive condensation or splash. As a measure, once your pool is up and running, inspect periodically for any signs of rust on the exterior and touch-up paint or re-seal as needed (we discuss maintenance later).

By incorporating insulation into your container pool build, you will save energy and extend your swimming season. An insulated container pool paired with a decent heating system can even be used year-round in some climates, essentially acting like an above-ground hot tub in winter if desired. It’s all about controlling that heat loss. Now that we have a comfortable, insulated shell, let’s move to the fun part – finishing touches and customization!

Decking and Exterior Finishes

One big advantage of container pools is that you can customize the exterior look and the surrounding area to fit your aesthetic. After the pool shell is functional, you’ll likely want to add decking or cladding and other finishing features for looks and convenience. 

1. Pool Deck or Surround: 

Most container pools have some form of deck around them – this not only hides the steel container (if above ground) but provides a slip-resistant surface for entering/exiting the pool and lounging.

Above-Ground Pool Decks: 

You can build a wood or composite deck wrapping part or all of the container. For example, one side of the pool might have a narrow walkway deck for access, while one end might have a larger platform with chairs. Use treated lumber or composite boards that are water-resistant. Ensure the deck has railings or meets safety codes if raised. Integrating steps into the deck that align with the pool’s top edge makes entry easy. Keep the deck slightly below the top of the pool edge or design a flush coping.

In-Ground Edging: 

If your pool is flush with ground level, you’ll want a coping around the rim. This could be a poured concrete border, pavers, stone, or wood trim that covers the top steel edge and provides a smooth finished edge. Also, you can extend the patio or pool surround from that coping outward – e.g., a concrete patio or paver area around the pool for seating and walking.

Combining Deck with Container: 

In some builds, they cut away a section of the container’s side and incorporate an interior ledge or bench that aligns with an exterior deck. This creates a semi in-ground feel where you step from deck into pool seamlessly. It requires careful structural work but is a neat design if done right.

When building decks, always use non-slip surfaces. Composite deck boards often have textured grain that is slip-resistant. You can also get specific rubberized coatings or mats for pool areas if using wood. 

2. Exterior Cladding: 

The sides of an above-ground container can be covered for a nicer look:

Wood Slats or Siding: 

A popular approach is attaching wooden slats or planks vertically or horizontally around the container, giving a modern wood facade that can match your home or garden style. Leave an air gap for ventilation if the container is insulated beneath. Cedar, redwood, or other rot-resistant wood works well.

Fiber Cement or Vinyl Siding: 

You could clad the container like a house wall, using panels or siding. Ensure to anchor furring strips to the container and attach siding properly. Keep in mind the container might flex a tiny bit, so a slightly flexible attachment is okay.

Stone or Brick Veneer: 

For a really upscale look, you could face the container in a stone veneer or brick tiles. This is heavy and needs strong adhesion (and maybe a backing board attached to container). It can make the pool look like a permanent masonry structure.

Paint: 

If you like the industrial look, you might just paint the container exterior in an attractive color. Use a high-quality exterior metal paint (epoxy or enamel). A dark color might absorb heat (could warm the water, but also could be hot to touch); a lighter color stays cooler. Some owners embrace the container aesthetic with bright colors or patterns.

Murals or Creative Finishes:

Don’t be afraid to get creative – you can paint murals on the sides, or even use corrugated metal accents, etc. Just ensure whatever you do is weatherproof and doesn’t trap moisture against the steel (if adding cladding, allow drainage).

3. Coping and Top Edges: 

The top edge of the container (where you cut off the roof) will likely have exposed steel. It’s good to cover this with a protective and decorative coping:

  • You can use pool coping strips (pre-formed pieces of concrete or stone) just like on traditional pools, attached with construction adhesive or mortar to the top edge.
  • Or use a flat composite deck board or custom metal cap that runs along the top. Some container pool makers weld a flat steel plate on top edges for a smooth finish, then maybe add a rubber bumper or cap.
  • The coping provides a comfortable surface to sit on and lean on, and also hides the liner edge if you have one.

4. Ladders, Stairs, and Entries: 

Plan out how people will get in and out safely:

  • Built-in Stairs: One great customization is building stairs inside one end of the container pool (like wide corner steps or a stair across the width). These can be made from steel plates welded in place and then lined, or you can drop in prefabricated fiberglass steps if they fit. Built-in steps are safer and more convenient than ladders, especially for children or older swimmers.
  • Ladders: If you didn’t do built-in steps, install a sturdy pool ladder. For above-ground pools, you might use an A-frame ladder that goes up and over. For partially in-ground with a deck, mount a typical inground pool ladder (the U-shaped stainless kind that anchors to deck and has two or three steps that drop in).
  • Ensure any ladders are securely anchored and have no sharp edges. It’s good to have at least two points of entry/exit if the pool is long (one at each end).

5. Landscaping and Surroundings: 

To truly integrate your container pool into your backyard, consider the landscaping:

  • Add plants or planters around the pool (choose pool-friendly plants that won’t drop a ton of leaves into the water).
  • Use lighting – both underwater LED pool lights (which you can install in wall cutouts or use magnetic battery lights if you didn’t hardwire) and around the pool deck (path lights, string lights, etc.) to create ambiance for evening swims.
  • Provide some shade areas if you’re in a hot climate – perhaps a shade sail or pergola over part of the pool or deck so there’s an escape from sun.
  • If you have extra container sections (like the cut-out pieces), you could repurpose them creatively, maybe as matching benches or tables after smoothing edges.

6. Equipment Enclosure: 

Build a small enclosure or box for your pump and filter so they are hidden and protected. This could match the deck or cladding material. Ensure there’s ventilation in that box for the motor and access for servicing equipment. Add sound insulation if the pump noise is an issue, though modern pool pumps are fairly quiet. 

With decking and finishes in place, your container pool will not even look like a container – it will look like a beautifully integrated part of your yard. At the same time, you maintain the advantages (like portability – you could remove the pool or even take it with you if you move). Now, before calling it complete, let’s review the costs, benefits, and any drawbacks of container pools versus other pools, and make sure you’ve covered all bases.

Cost Considerations and Comparisons

Building a container pool can be more cost-effective than a traditional pool, but it’s still a significant investment. Let’s break down the costs and also compare it to conventional pool options for context. 

1. Cost Breakdown of a DIY/Custom Container Pool: 

The total cost will include:

Shipping Container: 

Depending on size and condition, a used 20′ container might cost $3,000–$5,000, and a 40′ one $5,000–$8,000 (more for one-trip like $8k–$12k range). Delivery fees may add a few hundred to thousand dollars based on distance and crane needs.

Site Prep and Concrete: 

Excavation, base material, and any concrete work (slab or footings) could range from $1,000 (for a simple gravel base) up to $5,000 or more (for a full concrete slab or difficult excavation).

Structural Modifications: 

If hiring out the cutting and welding, budget perhaps $1,000–$3,000 for a welder’s labor and steel materials for reinforcement (varies with complexity and local rates).

Waterproofing and Liner: 

A custom vinyl liner for a 20 ft pool might be around $1,000–$2,000. Spray coatings or fiberglass could cost a few thousand – possibly $3,000–$6,000 if done professionally. DIY epoxy paint is cheaper (a few hundred in materials) but might not last as long. Don’t forget sealants, underlayment, etc., maybe $200–$500.

Plumbing Equipment: 

Pump and filter systems for a small pool might be $500–$1,500 for a decent set (e.g. a 1 HP pump and sand filter combo). Add $100–$300 for PVC pipes, valves, skimmer, returns, fittings. If adding a heater, that’s another $2,000–$4,000 depending on type (heat pumps ~$3k, gas heaters similar, plus installation).

Electrical: 

If you need a new circuit run and panel work, an electrician might charge $500–$1,500 for wiring the pump and any lights.

Decking and Finishes: 

This can vary immensely. A simple small wood deck kit might be $1,000, whereas a large wraparound composite deck could run $5,000–$10,000 in materials. Cladding the container sides with wood or siding might cost a few hundred if DIY or more if hiring out.

Miscellaneous: 

Permits (few hundred), fencing (if not existing – could be $2,000+ for a backyard perimeter or pool fence), pool cover ($100 for a basic solar cover to $1,000+ for automatic covers), lighting ($100–$400), and of course water fill (10,000 gallons might cost $100–$300 from a utility or delivery).

Considering all these, a DIY-heavy project might squeeze in as low as around $15,000–$20,000 if you had minimal hired labor and kept things simple. More realistically, many custom container pools end up in the $20k–$40k range by completion. Still, that can be quite a savings compared to a typical in-ground pool. 

2. Prefab Container Pool Costs: 

If you buy from a manufacturer, they often charge $35k and up for a turnkey container pool delivered. For example, a base model 8x20 container pool might be $30k, and larger 40 ft models $50k–$85k with bells and whistles. These usually include the liner, equipment, some finish, but not always shipping or installation. So by building yourself, you could save a chunk, but you trade for sweat equity. 

3. Container Pool vs. Traditional Pool: 

Let’s compare key cost and feature differences:

Aspect

Shipping Container Pool

Traditional Pool (Concrete/Vinyl)

Initial Cost

~$35k–$65k installed on average (DIY can be less)

Broad range (~$25k–$100k depending on type/size)

Installation Time

Weeks to a couple of months (many components prefab or modular)

Often several months (excavation, construction, curing)

Customization

Limited sizes (20’ or 40’ length standard), fixed width ~8’. Can add windows, jets, etc., but shape is essentially rectangular.

Virtually any shape/size, deep and shallow zones, integrated spas possible easily.

Structural Durability

Very strong steel structure; with maintenance, can last 20+ years. May need re-coating liners over time.

Concrete pools last 25+ years; vinyl liners ~7–12 years before replacement; fiberglass shells ~20+ years.

Portability

Can be relocated if you move (above-ground installs especially).

Permanent – cannot move without destroying.

Maintenance Cost

Generally lower volume = fewer chemicals; smaller surface to clean. Exterior needs rust checks. Estimated maintenance $500–$800/year (if DIY).

Larger pools require more chemicals, energy; typical maintenance $1,500–$2,500/year if serviced.

Resale Value

May add less real estate value than a permanent in-ground pool (since it can be removed). But can be a selling feature for modern appeal.

Can significantly boost home value if well-designed permanent pool. Buyers may expect pool remains.

In summary, container pools tend to have lower upfront cost than concrete pools and a faster install time. They sacrifice some flexibility in shape/size but gain the ability to relocate and a unique style. If budget is tight, DIY container pool projects can be scaled to what you can afford (e.g., start simple and add features later). 

4. Ongoing Costs: 

Don’t forget to factor in:

  • Water and Electricity: Pump electricity for a small pool might be $20–$50/month depending on usage (more if heating). Water refills and chemical costs are relatively minor for a small pool.
  • Liner Replacements or Repairs: If using a vinyl liner, plan that it may need replacement maybe every 10 years or if it gets damaged. Coatings might need touch-ups in similar time frames.
  • Painting/Corrosion Maintenance: Every few years, you should inspect and possibly repaint exterior spots. This is minor cost (paint and a weekend of labor).
  • Insurance: Check with your homeowner’s insurance – you may need to add pool liability coverage, which might increase premiums slightly.

5. Cost vs. Value: 

One attractive element is that a container pool is an eco-friendly reuse of materials, which has its own kind of value. You’re also avoiding some of the expensive labor of forming and pouring concrete. If you later decide to remove it, you haven’t poured a hole full of concrete in the yard – the container can be craned out, and the site can be restored or used for something else. That flexibility is hard to put a dollar value on but is worth considering. 


In conclusion on costs, container pools can be a cost-effective path to owning a pool, especially if you’re willing to do some work yourself. Just be realistic about the budget and plan for all components – little extras can add up, but even so, most find the total project cost pleasantly lower than a comparable traditional pool. Next, we’ll weigh the overall pros and cons of shipping container pools so you have the full picture.

Pros and Cons of Shipping Container Pools

Every pool type has its advantages and disadvantages. Shipping container pools are no exception. Let’s lay out the key pros and cons to understand if this style of pool is right for you:

Advantages of Container Pools

Cost-Effective: 

Container pools often cost less than traditional pools. Installation can be tens of thousands of dollars cheaper than a concrete pool of similar size. You save on construction labor by using an existing structure. For budget-conscious families, this makes pool ownership attainable.

Faster Installation: 

Because the shell is pre-made, the overall build time is shorter. Many container pools are up and running in a matter of weeks, versus months for an in-ground pool. Quick installation means less disruption to your yard and sooner swimming.

Portability: 

A unique perk – container pools are relatively portable. If you move homes, you can in principle take the pool with you (especially if it’s above ground). Even if you stay, you have flexibility to reposition or remove the pool later, which is impossible with fixed in-ground pools.

Durability: 

Shipping containers are made of heavy-duty corten steel meant to endure harsh conditions. They are extremely sturdy and can easily hold the water weight when properly reinforced. With maintenance, a container pool can last for decades without structural issues. The steel walls and frame won’t crack like concrete can.

Eco-Friendly (Upcycling): 

Repurposing a used shipping container into a pool is a sustainable choice. It gives new life to a surplus container and uses fewer new materials than constructing a whole pool from scratch. Steel is recyclable too. Many see container pools as an environmentally friendly trend, aligning with sustainable living.

Small Footprint & Compact Design: 

For those with limited space, container pools are ideal. An 8-foot width can fit in narrow yards where a wider pool couldn’t. The compact, rectangular shape can tuck along a side yard or in a corner. You get a pool even in an urban or tight lot where digging a big hole isn’t feasible, Modern Aesthetics: Container pools have a cool, industrial-chic look that appeals to many modern homeowners. The clean lines of a rectangular container and the opportunity to add features like glass side walls can make a real design statement. With custom finishes, they become an eye-catching centerpiece.

Customization: 

Within the limits of the basic shape, there’s a lot you can customize. You can choose depth (by raising the pool floor or water level), add internal seating or a spa section, install viewing windows, integrate LED lighting, paint it any color, and build unique decking. It’s a great platform for creativity – your pool won’t look exactly like anyone else’s.

Maintenance Efficiency: 

Smaller volume pools are generally easier to maintain – fewer gallons to treat means you’ll spend less on chemicals and possibly less time cleaning. Also, container pools often have smooth walls (with liners or coatings) that are easy to brush clean. No large deep end to vacuum or complex shapes where circulation might be poor. Owners often report straightforward maintenance routines.

Disadvantages of Container Pools

Limited Size and Shape: 

You are fundamentally limited to a long, narrow rectangle in most cases (8 feet wide, and common lengths of 20 or 40 feet). If you dream of a large freeform lagoon or an Olympic-size pool, a container pool won’t satisfy that. The fixed width of ~8 feet can feel a bit tight for large groups or playing games compared to wider pools. Depth is also generally uniform (usually about 4 feet of water), so no deep diving end.

Need for Insulation and Heating: 

The metal walls can make the pool water cold unless addressed. Container pools can get quite warm in hot sun (acting like a bathtub) and then lose heat quickly when it’s cool. This means to have comfortable water, you likely need to insulate the pool and possibly invest in a heater or cover, adding to complexity and cost. In extreme climates, the steel could be a thermal drawback without proper mitigation.

Potential for Rust/Corrosion: 

Steel and water are natural enemies over the long term. If any part of the container’s protective coatings fail, rust can develop. Without vigilant maintenance, a container pool could start to corrode, especially around cut edges or where water might get trapped. Over many years, this could affect structural integrity if not managed. Traditional concrete or fiberglass pools don’t have this rust issue (though they have their own maintenance needs).

Permitting Hurdles: 

In some areas, since container pools are relatively novel, you might encounter confusion or extra scrutiny in the permitting process. Some inspectors might not be familiar with them and impose extra requirements. It’s not exactly a con of the pool itself, but a reality that you should be prepared to explain your project clearly to code officials.

Resale and Perception: 

While many think container pools are trendy, others might be skeptical. If selling your home, certain buyers might view it as less of an asset than a “real” in-ground pool. It could even be seen as temporary (like an above-ground pool) and not counted in property value. This depends on the market and how well the pool is integrated.

Access (Above-Ground Models): 

If the pool sits fully above ground, you have a steel box 4+ feet high – without a nice deck and landscaping, it can be a bit imposing or inconvenient to climb up to. Safety-wise, above-ground means you must climb a ladder which could pose difficulties for some (though conversely it’s safer from toddlers wandering in). Essentially, plan to build a good entry system; otherwise, using the pool isn’t as seamless as just walking into an in-ground pool.

Customization Constraints: 

While we listed customization as a pro, it has limits. Major changes like making the pool wider or radically altering shape require heavy fabrication – at some point, it’s no longer cost-effective and you might as well build a custom concrete pool. You work within the container’s form. Even adding something like a built-in hot tub section can be done (some manufacturers partition a section), but it’s a complex engineering challenge to DIY.

Equipment Space: 

Given the compact nature, you have to find space for pump/filter and possibly hide it. An in-ground pool often has a dedicated equipment pad out of view. With a small yard and container pool, that equipment could be more noticeable unless you plan for an enclosure or integrated solution.

In weighing these pros and cons, many homeowners conclude that the pros align with their needs – especially if they want a moderately sized pool at a lower cost and installed quickly. The cons are usually manageable with planning: insulation solves the heat loss, good coating and maintenance prevent rust, and a well-built deck negates access issues. It’s all about understanding these trade-offs before you start. 

Next, we’ll discuss maintenance and troubleshooting, so you know how to take care of your container pool and resolve any issues that might arise.

Maintenance and Troubleshooting Your Container Pool

Once your container pool is up and running, keeping it in top condition involves routine pool maintenance and being prepared to troubleshoot the unique aspects of a container-based pool. Fortunately, maintenance is not too onerous given the smaller size, but consistency is key. 

1. Routine Pool Maintenance:

Water Chemistry: 

Regularly test and balance the pool water. Maintain proper chlorine (or sanitizer) levels, pH (around 7.4–7.6), alkalinity, and stabilizer. This prevents algae growth and protects your liner and steel. Unbalanced, overly acidic water can corrode metal parts over time, so don’t neglect chemistry. Using a saltwater chlorination system is a popular, low-effort way to keep chlorine levels steady – it’s fine for liner pools as long as all metal is well-coated.

Filtering and Cleaning: 

Run the pump daily enough to turn over the water (commonly 4–8 hours depending on pool size and pump flow). Clean the skimmer basket at least weekly (more if trees around). Clean the filter per its type – backwash sand filters when pressure rises ~5-10 psi, rinse cartridge filters every few weeks and deep clean monthly, etc. Vacuum the pool floor and brush the walls weekly to remove any settled debris or biofilms.

Cover When Not in Use: 

This reduces debris and light exposure (algae growth), meaning less cleaning and chemical use. Also reduces evaporation which can leave mineral deposits on the container edge.

Winterizing: 

In cold climates, winterize the pool like any pool. Blow out and plug plumbing lines, drain equipment, remove or secure the liner if needed, and cover the pool for off-season. Because a container pool may be above ground, the entire vessel is exposed to freezing temps – proper winterizing is crucial to avoid freeze damage to the liner or walls. Some opt to keep a small amount of water with antifreeze in it and a cover, others fully drain (just don’t leave water that can freeze against steel).

Inspect and Maintain Exterior: 

Every season or two, walk around and inspect the container’s exterior and frame. Look for any developing rust spots or paint blisters. If found, address them promptly: sand it down, apply rust converter, and repaint with marine-grade paint. Also check that any exterior insulation or cladding remains intact and dry (no water logged behind anything). Ensure drain holes (if any in the structure or around) are clear so water doesn’t accumulate against steel.

Structural Checks: 

Although rare, keep an eye on any welds or reinforcements that were done. If you notice any bowing of walls or movement in the structure (very unlikely if built right), consult an expert. Most container pools easily handle the pressure but, for peace of mind, an annual glance at your reinforcements doesn’t hurt.

2. Preventing and Managing Rust: 

As emphasized, rust is the main long-term enemy. Preventive measures:

Keep Water Off Outer Walls: 

Ensure proper drainage around the pool. After heavy rain, no puddles should remain alongside the container. If you see water collecting, improve the grading or add drains.

Maintain Interior Liner/Coating: 

The inside liner or coating is protecting the steel from pool water. If you ever see the liner has a tear, patch it immediately. If using a painted or sprayed interior, touch up any scratches or worn spots during annual maintenance. By keeping the water from contacting steel, you stop rust before it starts.

Monitor Water Chemistry: 

Again, a badly balanced pool (low pH, high salt without proper coatings, etc.) can accelerate corrosion of any exposed metal. For instance, if you have any stainless steel fixtures or a window frame, keep pH from getting low and causing metal corrosion. A well-balanced pool is also gentler on the liner and container coatings.

Cathodic Protection (advanced): 

If your pool is in-ground and you’re very concerned about corrosion, you could consider cathodic protection (sacrificial anodes attached to the container that corrode in place of the steel). This is perhaps overkill for a pool if coatings are intact, but marine folks might think of it. Most DIY builds won’t need this if other protections are done.

3. Common Troubleshooting Scenarios:

Leakage: 

If you suspect the pool is losing water, troubleshoot systematically. First, rule out evaporation (do a bucket test). If it’s a leak, check obvious points: around the skimmer and returns (is the liner seal tight?), at any seams or liner corners, and the plumbing lines (especially joints and valves). A dye test can help pinpoint leaks inside the pool – squirting colored dye near suspected spots to see if it draws in. If the leak is in the liner, use a vinyl patch kit. If a plumbing leak, tighten or re-glue as needed. For serious leaks you can’t find, you might have to drain down incrementally to see when it stops (indicates leak at that level).

Pump or Circulation Issues: 

If the pump loses prime or flow seems weak, check the skimmer basket and pump strainer basket for clogs. Ensure the water level is high enough (mid-skimmer height). Check for air leaks in the suction line (pump sucking air through a loose connection can reduce performance). Also verify the valve positions – if partially closed by accident, it could restrict flow. Clean the filter if pressure is high. If the pump won’t start, check the breaker/GFCI (they can trip due to moisture).

Water Quality Problems: 

Small pools can shift chemistry quickly. If you get algae, shock the pool and brush thoroughly – container pools can be shocked more easily due to lower volume. Cloudy water? Probably filtration – check filter media, and run pump longer. For persistent cloudiness, use a clarifier chemical or have your water tested for balance (could be high calcium or something causing haze). If metals are present (from any slight corrosion or source water), use a metal sequestrant.

Structural Fixes: 

In the unlikely case you spot a structural problem like a crack in a weld or a soft spot in the floor, you’d want to drain the pool below that level and repair. Small weld cracks can be re-welded or braced. A floor issue might be resolved by adding a support underneath or internally if accessible. These scenarios are rare if the pool was built stoutly upfront.

Liner Replacement: 

Eventually, liners do wear out or get outdated. Replacing a liner in a container pool is similar to any vinyl pool. Drain the pool, remove coping and the old liner, possibly do some rust-touch-up while it’s empty, then fit a new liner. This can rejuvenate the pool like new.

4. Expert Help: 

Know when to call in help. If you encounter an electrical issue, always defer to a licensed electrician for safety. For complicated plumbing leaks under a deck or under the container, a pool professional with leak detection tools could save time. Structural concerns – an engineer or experienced welder/builder can advise the fix. It’s good to establish a relationship with a local pool service company even if you mostly DIY maintain – they can assist with water testing or occasional deep cleaning tasks.

By staying on top of maintenance, your container pool will remain a source of enjoyment rather than headaches. Many owners find that with regular care, a container pool is actually easier to maintain than larger pools – fewer gallons to manage, smaller area to clean, and all equipment easily accessible. Plus, the novelty of it tends to keep owners attentive (you’ll likely take pride in keeping your unique pool in great shape!). 

Finally, let’s wrap up with a brief conclusion and then address some frequently asked questions about building and owning a shipping container pool.

Conclusion

Building a shipping container pool is an innovative way to achieve a swimming pool with character and convenience. We’ve covered every phase – from the initial planning and permitting, through the engineering of cutting and reinforcing a container, to the finishing details that turn a steel box into a backyard oasis. It’s clear that container pools combine the best of DIY creativity and professional know-how. By repurposing a robust shipping container, you get a durable pool structure more quickly and often at lower cost than traditional methods, all while making an eco-friendly statement. 

However, success lies in the details: careful site preparation, thorough waterproofing, proper plumbing, and adherence to safety standards are what ensure your container pool is not only beautiful but also long-lasting and safe. This guide has given you an engineering-accurate roadmap – emphasizing structural integrity, quality materials, and smart construction practices at each step. If you follow these guidelines and respect the challenges (like managing rust and insulating the pool), you’ll end up with a container pool that delivers years of enjoyment. 

Remember that every container pool project is a bit unique. Don’t hesitate to consult experts for critical steps and tailor the design to your needs. Once built, maintain it well, and you’ll find that a container pool is relatively easy to own and operate. 

In the end, you’ll have a one-of-a-kind pool that reflects your personal style – whether it’s a sleek modern lap pool, a cozy plunge pool with a viewing window, or a fun family pool with a deck and lights. Shipping container pools are all about creativity meeting practicality. They turn an ordinary shipping container into something extraordinary – a customized aquatic retreat in your own yard. 

If you’re ready to take the plunge (literally!), use this comprehensive guide as your companion. Plan diligently, work safely, and soon you’ll be cooling off in your very own container pool. Happy building and swimming!


FAQs

Q1: Are shipping container pools worth it?

A:  Absolutely – for many people, container pools are worth it as a faster and often more affordable way to get a pool. They offer solid durability, a trendy modern look, and the option to relocate the pool if needed. Homeowners who value sustainability and unique design also find them very appealing. However, “worth it” depends on your priorities: if you want a very large or deep pool or a free-form shape, a container pool’s limitations might not satisfy those needs. But if you’re looking for a moderately sized pool with character and cost savings, a shipping container pool can be a fantastic choice, delivering plenty of fun and functionality for the investment.

Q2: How much does a shipping container pool cost?

A:  The cost of a shipping container pool can vary widely based on size, features, and whether you DIY or buy prefab. On average, a fully installed shipping container pool runs about $35,000 to $65,000. A basic DIY conversion might be done in the $20k–$30k range if you keep things simple and do much of the work yourself. Prefabricated container pool units from manufacturers (with all systems installed) typically start around $30k for a small 20-foot model and can go up to $80k or more for larger 40-foot models with luxury features. Remember to factor in extra costs like site prep, permits, delivery, and decking or landscaping. Even with those, container pools generally cost less than traditional in-ground pools of similar size.

Q3: Do you need a permit for a shipping container pool?

A:  Yes, in most cases you will need a building permit for a shipping container pool, just as you would for any swimming pool. Regulations vary by location, but typically any structure intended for swimming and over a certain depth (often 24 inches) requires a permit and adherence to safety codes. For example, in Texas a building permit is required for a container pool, and it must meet safety requirements like having a fence and locking gate around it. Expect to submit plans to your local building department and possibly have inspections for the electrical work, pool barrier, and final pool installation. Always check your local city or county regulations early in the project to ensure you comply with all requirements (permits, fencing, alarms, etc.).

Q4: How do you waterproof a shipping container pool?

A:  Waterproofing a shipping container pool is done by installing a pool liner or specialty coating inside the container. After sealing all seams and any cutouts with marine-grade sealant, most builders either: (a) put in a heavy-duty vinyl pool liner (custom-fit to the container’s interior), or (b) apply a sprayed-on or rolled-on waterproof coating such as polyurea, rubber, or epoxy. Some even install fiberglass lining. The key is to create a continuous, watertight membrane so that the water never contacts the steel walls directly. Additionally, all plumbing penetrations (skimmer, returns, drains) are gasketed and sealed. With a properly installed liner or coating, a container pool becomes as waterproof as any traditional pool.

Q5: How long do shipping container pools last?

A:  When built and maintained well, a shipping container pool can last decades. The steel structure itself is very durable – shipping containers are designed to last 25+ years in harsh conditions. With proper anti-corrosion measures (protective coatings, regular maintenance), the container frame can easily last 20 years or more as a pool. Liners or interior coatings may require renewal every 8-15 years (for example, a vinyl liner might need replacing in about 10 years). The longevity also depends on climate and care: keep the pool’s exterior painted and rust-free, maintain water chemistry to protect the liner and metal, and the pool should give you a long service life. There are container pools installed a decade ago still going strong, and with newer ones using improved coatings, lifespans of 20–30 years are realistic.

Q6: Can a container pool be installed in-ground?

A:  Yes. You can install a shipping container pool partially or fully in-ground with the right preparation. In-ground installation gives a sleek, flush-to-yard look and easier access. To do this safely, you must address a few things: structural reinforcement (the container’s walls need support against outward soil pressure when empty – adding steel bracing or a concrete surround can help), corrosion protection (coat the exterior with waterproofing and/or wrap it to prevent soil moisture rusting it), and drainage (ensure there’s gravel and drains around it so water doesn’t accumulate against the container). Many owners bury the container partially so the top edge is at ground level, which also helps with insulation and aesthetics. It’s important to consult an engineer or experienced builder when installing in-ground, but it is a common practice and works well when done correctly.

Q7: Do shipping container pools rust?

A:  The container pool’s steel can rust if it’s not properly protected, but you can largely prevent this. Shipping containers are made of corten steel which is weather-resistant, and during the pool conversion you will apply coatings (paint, epoxy, liner) that shield the steel from water. As long as those barriers remain intact, the steel won’t rust. However, if scratches, chips, or leaks expose bare metal to water (especially chlorinated pool water or outside moisture), rust can develop over time. Common areas of concern are cut edges or any welds – these need to be primed and painted thoroughly. Regular maintenance is key: inspect the exterior annually and touch up any paint damage, and ensure the interior liner is in good shape. With these steps, rust is very manageable. In short, container pools can rust if neglected, but a well-built and well-maintained container pool should experience minimal rust issues over its lifetime.

Q8: How do you heat a shipping container pool?

A:  Heating a container pool is done much like heating any pool. Common methods include: electric heat pumps, gas heaters (propane or natural gas), electric resistance heaters, or solar heating systems. Many container pool owners opt for an electric heat pump – it’s efficient and can maintain comfortable temperatures economically, especially for smaller volume pools. Gas heaters heat faster and work in any temperature, which is great for quick warming or colder climates. If you have a smaller plunge-style container pool, even a standard spa or pool electric heater could work (keeping in mind operating cost). Solar pool heating panels are also effective: you can mount them on a roof or rack and pump water through to warm up on sunny days. Since container pools are smaller, heating them is relatively quick and not as costly as a large pool – just be sure to insulate the pool and use a cover to retain that heat. Combining a heater with a solar blanket cover can keep your shipping container pool nice and warm for evening swims or extend your swimming season significantly.

Q9: What maintenance does a shipping container pool require?

A:  Maintenance for a container pool is very similar to any other pool, with a few container-specific checks:

  • Routine pool care: You’ll need to run the filter daily, keep the water chemistry balanced (chlorine, pH, etc.), brush the walls, vacuum the floor, and clean the skimmer basket weekly. These tasks are actually easier in a smaller container pool since there’s less water and surface area.
  • Liner and interior: If you have a vinyl liner, occasionally inspect it for any small tears or wear and patch as needed. With a painted or coated interior, you might need to recoat every several years depending on wear.
  • Winterizing: In cold climates, winterize the pool by draining below inlets, blowing out lines, and protecting the container from freeze damage (similar to an above-ground pool winterization).
  • Exterior maintenance: This is a bit unique to container pools – you should check the exterior paint for chips and touch them up to prevent rust. Also ensure any external bolts or attachments remain rust-free (use rust-resistant hardware).
  • Equipment: Regularly clean or backwash the filter, and service the pump and heater per manufacturer guidelines (e.g., lubricate pump o-rings, descale heater if needed).
    Overall, the maintenance is straightforward and often less time-consuming than a large in-ground pool. Many owners say they spend only a few minutes each week testing water and maybe an hour on weekends for cleaning. Staying on top of it continuously will keep your container pool in excellent shape and avoid any big rehab jobs later.

Q10: What are the pros and cons of shipping container pools?

A: Pros: Shipping container pools are cost-effective, quick to install, and portable. They provide a sturdy structure (steel frame) and a modern aesthetic that many love. They work well in small or narrow spaces where traditional pools might not fit, and they reuse materials (eco-friendly upcycling). Maintenance can be lower due to smaller size, and you can customize them with windows, decks, and unique features.

Cons: They are limited in size and shape – basically a rectangular pool with an 8-foot width constraint. You may need to add insulation and a heater as the metal conducts temperature, which is an extra step not needed in some traditional pools. Without proper care, rust is a potential issue (the steel must be well-protected). Aesthetically, if not clad or decked, a plain container can look industrial (which could be a pro or con depending on taste). They may not add as much home resale value as a permanent in-ground pool, and permitting can sometimes be tricky if local authorities aren’t familiar with them. Overall, the advantages often outweigh the drawbacks for people who choose container pools, as long as you plan for the insulation, waterproofing, and maintenance aspects. It comes down to your priorities: if you want a fast, creative pool solution and don’t need a huge swimming area, the pros make container pools very attractive.



By sheldon trieb December 17, 2025
A container pool is a swimming pool constructed by converting a steel shipping container into a watertight pool shell. In simple terms, builders take a long, rectangular steel cargo container and transform it into a fully functional backyard pool. The process involves reinforcing the container’s structure, adding plumbing and filtration, and lining the interior with a smooth, waterproof surface. The result is a durable, prefabricated pool with a sleek modern aesthetic – an alternative to building a traditional concrete or fiberglass pool from scratch. Because they start as industrial shipping containers made of heavy-duty Corten steel , container pools are extremely strong and resistant to cracking or deformation. They retain the container’s toughness but are customized for swimming comfort (with finishes, insulation, and pool equipment added). Container pools have surged in popularity as a fast and cost-effective way to install a pool. Unlike a concrete pool that can take months of messy construction, a container pool is largely built off-site and delivered ready-to-use. This can cut installation time down to days or weeks, since the pool arrives as a pre-made unit that just needs placement and hook-up. Homeowners often save significant construction time – the container shell can be craned into your yard and filled with water long before a concrete pool would even be half-finished. Container pools also tend to cost less than traditional inground pools , in part because you’re repurposing an existing structure and avoiding extensive on-site labor. In fact, industry experts note that container pools can be roughly half the price of a comparably sized concrete pool. Beyond saving time and money, these pools use less water (they’re usually smaller volume than a large custom pool) and, when properly insulated, can be more energy-efficient to heat. Overall, a container pool combines strength, sustainability (recycling a shipping container), and contemporary design – which is why more and more homeowners are intrigued by the concept. Why Are Container Pools So Popular? In recent years, shipping container pools have moved from a niche idea to a mainstream trend. There are a few key reasons behind the rise of container pools: Fast Installation: People love that a container pool can be up and running quickly. The pool is built in a factory and delivered as a unit, drastically reducing the on-site construction time and disruption in your yard. If you want a pool by summer, a container pool lets you skip the 2–3 month construction slog of a concrete pool. Affordable Alternative: Container pools offer a middle-ground price point – more expensive than a simple above-ground kit pool, but significantly more affordable than a custom inground concrete pool. Many buyers who find concrete or fiberglass pool quotes too high are opting for container pools as a budget-friendly way to get a stylish pool. (It’s important to note “affordable” doesn’t mean cheap – it’s still a significant investment, but you often get premium features for less cost than traditional builds.) Modern Aesthetics: The look of a container pool appeals to fans of modern design and repurposed architecture. The long, rectangular shape with clean lines fits well in contemporary landscapes. With creative exterior cladding (wood, stucco, etc.), these pools can become an eye-catching architectural feature. They’ve been featured in design magazines and social media, boosting their trendiness as a “cool” backyard centerpiece. Eco-Friendly Reuse: There’s a sustainability angle – each container pool upcycles a shipping container that might otherwise sit unused or be scrapped. Using an existing steel structure means fewer raw materials for a new pool build. Additionally, container pools tend to be smaller and can be insulated, which means they often use less water and energy over time. Environmentally conscious homeowners and builders appreciate these green benefits. Unique Uses and Settings: Container pools aren’t just for suburban backyards. They’re being used in a variety of settings: Small Urban Yards: The compact footprint (typically 8 feet wide) allows a container pool to fit in narrow or limited spaces where a standard pool couldn’t. For example, a 20-foot container pool only needs about a 10×25 ft area, making it viable even in small city backyards. Rooftops and Decks: In commercial or high-end residential projects, container pools have been placed on rooftop terraces or elevated decks (with structural engineering) to create a luxury pool experience in non-traditional locations. Vacation Rentals & Hotels: Short-term rental owners (Airbnb, etc.) and boutique hotels install container pools as a quick way to add a wow factor for guests. The distinctive look photographs well for listings, and the pool itself can often be moved or repurposed if needed. Some resorts use container pools as insta-worthy plunge pools or rooftop infinity pools to stand out on social media. Temporary or Mobile Events: Because they’re self-contained units, container pools can even be used for events or “pop-up” installations. For instance, a container pool could be transported to a music festival or sports event to serve as a mobile swimming venue, then removed afterward – something not feasible with permanent pools. All these factors have fueled the container pool craze. Media coverage calling them “one of the coolest backyard trends” has further accelerated interest. By 2026, container pools are no longer an odd experiment – they’ve become an accepted option for homeowners seeking a modern, durable, and often faster alternative to a traditional pool build. As more manufacturers enter the market and refine their designs, we can expect container pools to continue growing in popularity. How a Container Pool Is Built (Step-by-Step) Building a container pool involves transforming a standard steel cargo container into a leak-proof swimming pool . This is a complex engineering process that experienced manufacturers have mastered. Here is an overview of the typical steps to create a container pool: 1. Selecting and Preparing the Container Everything starts with the shipping container itself. Builders usually source a high-quality steel container – often a “one-trip” container , meaning it’s almost new (only used once for cargo). Using a newer container ensures the walls and floor are in good condition, without significant dents or rust. Structural integrity is crucial , so the container is thoroughly inspected for any damage or corrosion that could weaken it. Standard container sizes used for pools are 20 feet or 40 feet long (8 feet wide, and about 8.5 feet tall). The 8×20 ft size is common for a plunge pool or swim-spa, while 8×40 ft can make a lap pool or a pool/spa combo. Once a suitable container is chosen, it’s cleaned and prepped for modification. Any residual flooring (often wood) may be removed or sealed, and the exterior paint might be stripped if it’s in poor shape. Essentially, this step is about ensuring the container is a sound blank canvas for the pool conversion. 2. Structural Modifications and Reinforcement Next, the container undergoes heavy modification to become a pool shell. This involves cutting and reinforcing steel : Cutting the Opening: Typically, the top of the container (the roof panel) is cut off to create the open top of the pool. Sometimes sections of the sides are also cut (for example, if adding a window or a shallow lounge area). Cutting out panels removes some structural support, so careful reinforcement is needed. Welding Reinforcements: Steel beams or braces are added to critical areas to strengthen the modified container. The long side walls, for instance, must hold back the pressure of water once the pool is filled. Builders weld additional steel framing along the top edges and sides to prevent bowing outward. The floor may also be reinforced with cross-members or a secondary frame, since it will carry the weight of thousands of gallons of water. All cut edges and new welds are treated to prevent rust (the raw steel is primed and coated because cutting exposes bare metal). By the end of this phase, the container still looks like a rectangular box, but it’s been converted into a structurally sound pool shape , ready to be waterproofed. 3. Adding a Watertight Pool Interior After the steel shell is reinforced, the builders focus on making the interior suitable for holding water (and swimmers!). Waterproofing the interior is one of the most important steps in a container pool conversion. There are a few different methods used: Fiberglass Pool Shell: Many container pools use a one-piece fiberglass liner that is inserted into the container. This is essentially a prefabricated pool interior made of molded fiberglass composite. It fits snugly inside and provides a smooth, watertight surface. Fiberglass shells are extremely water-resistant and algae-resistant, similar to a fiberglass inground pool. They also lend some structural support and a nice finish (often a glossy blue or white). Once installed, the gap between the fiberglass shell and the container wall may be filled or sealed to keep it in place. Flexible Membrane Liner: Another approach is lining the container with a special vinyl liner or membrane . This could be a heavy-duty PVC membrane (sometimes used in commercial pools) that is custom-welded to fit the interior, or a thick vinyl liner like those in vinyl-liner pools. These membranes are also fully waterproof and can incorporate patterns or textures. High-end examples include architectural liner systems that are UV and tear-resistant. A quality liner will completely cover all steel surfaces so no water touches metal. Epoxy Coating or Paint: A more budget-friendly method is to coat the interior with epoxy or marine-grade pool paint . The steel walls are sandblasted and then sprayed/rolled with a multi-layer epoxy coating to seal against water. While epoxy paint can initially create a waterproof barrier, it is generally the least durable option – over time, painted steel can chip or scratch, which can let water reach the metal. This is why most experts recommend a fiberglass or thick vinyl liner over just paint, for longevity. No matter which interior finish is used, the goal is the same: create a leak-proof basin inside the container. Often, builders will also install built-in steps, benches, or a shallow section as part of this interior finishing step (for example, a fiberglass insert might have molded steps, or a vinyl liner can accommodate steel-framed steps added to the container). All penetrations for plumbing (skimmer, drains, etc.) are carefully sealed. At this stage, the container really starts to look like a pool – it has a smooth interior ready to hold water. 4. Insulating the Container Pool One major advantage of container pools is that builders can insulate them to improve heat retention. After the interior is waterproofed, typically closed-cell spray foam insulation is applied to the exterior of the container walls (and sometimes the underside). Spray foam is a rigid polyurethane foam that expands and sticks to surfaces: The foam is sprayed in a layer a few inches thick all around the outside of the container. Once cured, this creates a thermal blanket around the pool. The insulation helps keep the pool water warm (by reducing heat loss through the steel walls into the surrounding soil or air) and also keeps external heat out during hot weather. An insulated container pool is much more energy-efficient. In fact, data shows an insulated container pool might lose only ~0.5°F overnight, whereas an uninsulated concrete pool could drop 2°F or more in the same period. This means you spend less on heating and the water temperature stays more stable. The foam essentially turns the container into something like a giant thermos, rather than a metal box that conducts heat away. Spray foam also has structural benefits . Once hardened, the foam adds rigidity to the container walls (acting like an adhesive rib). It also seals any tiny gaps, prevents condensation, and protects the steel from external moisture. Because closed-cell foam is water-resistant, it can serve as a secondary moisture barrier on the outside of the steel. All these factors contribute to a longer lifespan and less maintenance (e.g. the steel won’t rust from outside water exposure or internal condensation). Insulation is not strictly required – some basic container pools might skip this to cut costs – but most high-quality container pools today include full insulation because it dramatically improves performance. (If you live in a very warm climate and don’t plan to heat the pool, insulation might be less critical, but it’s still beneficial for preventing excessive heating or cooling of the water.) 5. Installing Plumbing, Filtration, and Electrical Systems In parallel with lining and insulating, builders will integrate all the necessary pool equipment into the container. They cut openings in the steel as needed for: Skimmer and Returns: A surface skimmer (to take in water and debris from the top) is usually installed in a wall cut-out, just like in a regular pool. Return jets are plumbed to circulate water back into the pool. Main Drain: Many container pools also have a drain at the bottom (especially if fully inground) for complete drainage or circulation. This may require coring through the steel floor and sealing in a drain fitting. Plumbing Lines: PVC piping is run along the exterior or within cut channels to connect the skimmer, returns, and drain to the pump and filter system. Since the container will be delivered as a unit, all internal plumbing is set up in the factory, pressure-tested for leaks, and secured. Pump & Filter: A pool pump and filtration unit are installed, often at one end of the container (in a recessed equipment compartment or attached externally). Cartridge filters or sand filters are common, paired with an efficient pump. Top manufacturers usually use reliable pool equipment similar to any backyard pool – the difference is it’s pre-mounted and plumbed for you. The equipment might be housed in a small cut-out section of the container or a separate mini vault. Electrical & Lighting: The pool is wired for any lights (most container pools include at least one underwater LED light), and for powering the pump, and optionally a heater or other add-ons. Conduit and wiring are run so that upon installation, an electrician just has to connect the main power to the system. Underwater lights are fitted in sealed niches in the pool wall or incorporated into the liner. If the pool has any spa features (like jets or a blower) or automation systems, those are also pre-wired as much as possible. By the end of this step, the container pool is essentially fully outfitted with its circulation system . Think of it as a plug-and-play pool: once on site, you’ll hook a few connections to your house power and possibly gas (for a heater), but the internal plumbing and equipment are already done. High-quality builds will include all standard components – pump, filter, skimmer, returns, light, and sometimes a basic heater or at least piping ready for one. Everything is secured to handle transport (so nothing rattles loose when the container is moved). 6. Exterior Finishes and Customization Although not structurally necessary, most people will add some kind of exterior finish to their container pool for appearance. A raw shipping container has corrugated steel sides and often shipping markings – cool for an industrial vibe, but not everyone’s taste. During fabrication, owners can choose how the outside of the pool will look: The steel can be primed and painted in any color. Marine-grade paint or powder coating can give a clean look and protect the exterior from rust. Some leave the corrugated texture visible but with a fresh paint job (e.g. a modern charcoal gray or a color that complements the home). The container can be cladded or wrapped with different materials. Popular options include wood cladding (to make it look like it’s encased in a wooden deck), composite siding or panels, stone or brick veneer on the sides, or even stucco to match a house wall. Essentially, you can disguise the container so it doesn’t look like a container at all. For example, building a wood deck around a partially above-ground container pool can hide the steel sides and provide a lounge space. Coping and Top Edge: The top rim of the container (which becomes the pool’s edge) is usually covered or capped for a finished look. This might be done with composite deck boards, stone coping pieces, or poured concrete edge if the pool is inground. A common approach is to build a deck flush with the pool edge, so the container’s top is hidden and people can sit or walk right up to the pool like any other pool deck. Any special features, like windows or waterfalls, are integrated at this stage too. For instance, if an acrylic viewing window is added, the opening is framed and the thick acrylic panel is installed and sealed. Exterior tiles or facade around that window might be added for style. If a water feature like a cascade or fountain is built into the design, it will be fitted on the outside now. By customizing the exterior, the container pool can either embrace its industrial look or completely hide it – it’s up to the owner’s vision. This step is what makes the pool feel like a designed part of the landscape rather than just a dropped-in box. Some manufacturers offer standard exterior finish packages, or you can work with local contractors for custom finishes once the pool is on site. 7. Delivery and On-Site Installation Once fabrication is complete, the container pool is loaded up for delivery to the homeowner’s property. Shipping a container pool is typically done on a flatbed truck or trailer. The pool structure is sturdy (built for ocean freight originally!), but the builders still secure everything for transport: The interior might be braced or padded to prevent any flex. Small components are strapped down. The pool often travels empty (no water) and will be filled on site. Placing the pool: On installation day, a crane or heavy-duty forklift is used to lift the container pool off the trailer and onto the prepared site in the yard. Depending on access, the crane might lift it over the house or fence. The operation is usually brief – the actual placement can often be done in under an hour once rigged. For above-ground installs, sometimes a tilt-bed truck can even slide the container into position without a crane, if there’s a direct path. After placement, the remaining tasks include: Leveling and Securing: The pool is checked to ensure it’s perfectly level on its foundation. Shim adjustments or slight re-positioning might be done. If it’s inground or partially inground, there may be backfilling around the container or anchoring it to footings as per the engineering plan. Utility Hookups: Plumbers connect the pool’s pipes (which likely terminate at an accessible point) to the necessary water supply or drainage as needed, and an electrician wires the pool equipment to the home’s power supply. If a gas heater is being installed, a gas line connection would be done by a licensed tech. Essentially, the “tails” of plumbing and electrical that were pre-installed in the factory now get connected to your home systems. Filling and Testing: The pool is filled with water (either via a garden hose or truck delivery of water). The installers will fire up the pump and filter, check that water is circulating properly with no leaks, and that the skimmer and returns work. They’ll also test any lights, heater, or other features. Water chemistry will be balanced initially (some companies include adding the starter chemicals). In a matter of days, the pool goes from an empty steel box arriving on a truck to a full-fledged swimming pool ready to use . One big reason container pools are appealing is how minimal the on-site work is . Once it’s placed and plugged in, you avoid weeks of dust, noise, and disruption. As long as the site was prepared correctly (more on that below), the installation is straightforward. Many container pool owners have been swimming within a day or two of delivery – a far cry from the months-long build of a concrete pool. Site Note: If you’re considering a container pool, it’s critical to plan for the delivery access and foundation ahead of time. The container will need a clear path or crane access. We’ll discuss site prep next, but keep in mind the installation step goes smoothly only if groundwork has been laid (literally and figuratively). Installation Methods and Site Preparation One great aspect of container pools is their flexibility in installation . You can install a container pool fully above-ground, semi-inground, or fully inground, depending on your preference and property conditions. Each method has its own considerations for site preparation: Above-Ground Installation (Freestanding) Placing the container pool above ground is the simplest option. In this setup, the entire pool sits on top of the ground, fully exposed like a large above-ground pool. Key points for above-ground installs: Foundation Pad: Even above-ground, you must prepare a level, load-bearing foundation for the container. Typically this means either a reinforced concrete slab or a set of concrete footings/piers that support the corners and midpoint of the container. Some use a well-compacted gravel bed, but concrete is often recommended for long-term stability. For example, a 3–4 inch thick concrete pad or concrete strips under the container’s length provide a solid, level base. This prevents the heavy container from settling into the soil over time. No Excavation Needed: The big advantage is you don’t have to dig a big hole . As long as the ground is levelled and prepared, the pool can be craned in place. This means much less site disruption and usually no permits for excavation (though you likely still need a pool permit – more on permits soon). Accessibility: Plan how you’ll get in and out of an 8-foot-tall above-ground pool. Typically, owners build stairs or a small deck up to the pool edge. The high walls can actually be a safety feature (harder for small children to climb in), but you’ll want convenient access for swimmers. Many surround the pool with a wrap-around deck, partially or fully, which also hides the container’s appearance. Visual Considerations: An above-ground container pool will be a prominent feature in the yard. Landscaping or exterior cladding can help it blend in. For instance, you could backfill soil partway up the sides to create a planter or berm, or install lattice and plants around the base. Above-ground installs are often the fastest and most cost-efficient. Essentially the process is: prepare pad → deliver pool onto pad → hook up utilities. If you ever move, it’s also easier (in concept) to take the pool with you or sell it, since it’s not buried – the pool is a movable asset. Keep in mind local rules: some areas consider an above-ground container pool differently (possibly as temporary structures), but most places still require permits and safety fencing just like any pool. Partially In-Ground (Semi-Buried) A very popular approach is to install the container pool partially inground – essentially burying maybe 2–4 feet of its height and leaving the rest above grade. This gives a more low-profile look without the expense of a full dig. Considerations for semi-inground: Shallow Excavation: You’ll excavate a rectangular pit that might be, say, 3 feet deep. The container (8 ft high) then sits in it, so 5 feet remains above ground. This lowers the visible height and can make the pool look more integrated with the yard (especially if you plan to build a deck at ground level abutting the pool). Structural Support: Even when partially buried, the container’s walls need lateral support. Often, the excavation is made a bit wider, and then after the container is placed, the gap is backfilled with gravel or a flowable fill up to a certain height. In some cases, short retaining walls or a concrete collar are built around the portion that’s underground to hold soil back and prevent collapse. Essentially, you treat it similar to an inground pool in the buried portion – ensuring no soil pressure deforms the walls. Foundation: You still need a solid base at the bottom – usually a concrete pad or piers for the container to rest on in the pit, just like above-ground. Drainage is also important; the pit should have gravel and possibly a drain pipe to route water away, so the container isn’t sitting in water when it rains. Aesthetics & Access: With a semi-inground install , you can often have the pool’s top at a nice mid-height that works with decking. For example, if 4 feet is above ground, that’s around waist-high – perfect for building a deck that meets the top of the pool, or even leaving it exposed as a bench-height wall. The exposed sides can be clad with stone or wood for a retaining wall look. Climbing in is easier (fewer steps needed) and the pool doesn’t dominate the view as much as a fully above-ground unit might. Semi-inground tends to be a best-of-both-worlds solution: less digging and cost than a full inground, but a more polished look than fully above. Many homeowners in suburban settings with slight slopes opt for this method. Do note that partial burial still requires you to follow guidelines for backfill and possibly involve an engineer, since you have a mix of earth against part of the container and open air on the rest – the structure must handle both. Fully In-Ground (Buried Container Pool) Yes, you can completely bury a container pool such that it looks just like a traditional in-ground pool. When installed fully inground, a container pool’s top is at ground level with decking or coping around it. However, this method is the most involved: Deep Excavation: You’ll need to excavate a hole large enough to drop the entire container in, with some clearance on all sides. That’s an 8+ foot deep pit for a standard container (plus extra width/length clearance). Sub-base and Drainage: A concrete slab or piers at the bottom of the pit are typically used to support the container evenly. Under that, crushed stone and drainage pipe ensure any groundwater can escape. Essentially, you don’t want the container sitting in wet soil – a drainage system around the pool (french drains or a sump) is wise. Wall Support/Backfilling: This is critical – you cannot just dump soil back against the container’s thin steel walls without risking collapse, especially while empty. Usually, one of two things is done: Pour a concrete retaining wall or collar around the container’s exterior after it’s in place, or Backfill with a self-compacting material like gravel or a flowable slurry that provides even support. Some builders construct cinder block walls around the perimeter of the container (an inch or two away) and then fill the gap with gravel, so the container is essentially in a concrete/block vault. Others will weld additional exterior bracing on the container to stiffen it before backfilling. The engineering here is similar to installing a fiberglass pool – the backfill must support the pool walls to avoid bulging. Access to Equipment: If the pool’s equipment is attached to the container, you’ll need access panels or vaults to service it. Often, a fully inground container pool will have a separate equipment pad somewhere, with pipes running underground to the container (like a traditional pool equipment setup). Coping and Integration: Once buried, you’ll add coping around the top edge (stone or composite) and pool decking around as desired. At this point, it can be virtually indistinguishable from a conventional pool in appearance. Fully inground installations give you the seamless look many people desire. And even when fully buried, container pools can be more affordable than constructing a concrete pool because the “shell” was still prefab. However, the gap in cost narrows due to the additional site work (excavation, concrete supports, etc.). You will definitely need to engage professionals with experience in pool installation or excavation to do a full inground correctly. Also, all local building codes for inground pools (setbacks from property lines, fencing, etc.) will apply here. Site Preparation Summary: No matter which installation method you choose, proper site prep is essential . This includes: Ensuring the ground or slab can support the weight (a filled 20-ft container pool can weigh 60,000+ lbs including water). Having a level base so the pool sits true (water will tell you if it’s off-level). Planning for drainage so water doesn’t collect around the container and cause corrosion issues. Checking access for delivery – a crane or heavy machinery will likely be needed, so overhead wires or tight turns need to be accounted for. It’s highly recommended to work with your pool provider or an engineer to get a site plan. A little extra preparation will prevent headaches like shifting pools or uneven surfaces later. For a detailed overview of how to prepare a site and install a container pool step-by-step, see our Installation Process guide. ( Pro tip: Always check local regulations when deciding on above vs. inground. Some jurisdictions might classify a fully above-ground container pool differently for permits versus one that’s inground. When in doubt, assume you’ll need similar permits as any pool and plan accordingly.) Permits and Safety Considerations Installing a pool – container pools included – comes with responsibilities regarding permits and safety . Here’s what you need to know on these fronts: Building Permits: In most areas, you will need a residential pool permit or building permit before installing a container pool, just as you would for any swimming pool. Don’t be misled by the fact that a container pool is “prefab” or can sit above ground – authorities still care about pool safety and proper installation. Permit requirements vary widely by location (state, county, city). Generally: If the pool is over a certain depth (often 24 inches or more of water), it requires a permit. Container pools are typically 4+ feet deep, so they qualify. The permit process will usually require you to submit plans or specifications of the pool, how it will be installed, and details on safety features (fencing, alarms, etc.). They want to ensure the project meets local building codes and pool regulations. Some areas might not have seen a container pool before – in such cases they’ll usually default to treating it like an above-ground pool structure or a “semi-public pool” depending on use. Be prepared to educate the permitting office on what a container pool is, if needed, and provide any engineered drawings from the manufacturer. It’s wise to check with your local building department early – even before you order the pool. This way, you’ll know what regulations or extra steps apply. Our detailed permits guide provides a state-by-state overview of pool permit rules and what to prepare. Zoning and Placement: In addition to building permits, comply with any zoning rules (how close the pool can be to property lines, septic systems, etc.). Some municipalities might have rules about shipping containers in general – occasionally there are restrictions on having shipping containers on residential property. However, once it’s a pool, often it’s categorized under pool rules instead. Still, clarify that the container pool is allowed in your zone . For fully above-ground units, also ask if it’s considered a temporary structure or permanent – most likely permanent if it’s staying, but definitions vary. Safety Barriers: All US states have pool safety requirements, typically mandating a fence or barrier around any pool deeper than 18–24 inches. A container pool does not get a pass on this. Even if the container’s sides are 8 feet tall, you will likely still need a proper pool fence with a self-closing gate (unless perhaps the pool is 100% above ground and walls >4 ft, some codes allow the pool wall itself to count as a barrier if you have no accessible steps – but as soon as you build a deck or have steps, you need a fence). Also consider: Covers and Alarms: Some areas require pool safety covers or door alarms if the pool is near the house. While not universally mandated, it’s strongly recommended to use a locking safety cover for any pool to prevent accidents. Non-Climbable Exterior: If your container pool is above ground and you don’t immediately put a fence around the whole yard, you’ll need to secure the ladder or steps. Many above-ground pool codes say you must remove or lock access steps when not in use. You could also attach fencing directly on the container’s rim with a gate at the ladder – some creative solutions exist, but be sure it meets local code. Structural Safety: Container pools are engineered to be very strong, but once installed: If above-ground, make sure it’s stably supported . The last thing you want is any shifting. Using a proper foundation and anchoring the container (bolting it to concrete piers, for instance) can prevent movement. Never install a heavy pool on simple blocks or unstable ground. Electrical Safety: All pool electrical components (pump, lights) should be GFCI protected and installed by a licensed electrician. This is standard pool safety to prevent electrical shock hazards. Also, bond any metal parts as required (your electrician will handle bonding the steel container if needed per code). Water Depth & Diving: Most container pools are relatively shallow (about 4 to 4.5 feet of water depth). They are not safe for diving or high jumping. You should not install a diving board on a container pool – and in fact most manufacturers will void warranties if you do, because the depth is insufficient. Clearly inform family/guests that it’s a leisure pool, not a diving pool. If you have kids, consider depth markings or at least stern warnings against attempting any head-first dives. In summary, treat a container pool with the same caution and adherence to regulations as any swimming pool. They can absolutely be safe and enjoyable, but you must follow the rules: get your permits, put up a fence or barrier, and use common-sense safety measures. It’s far better to handle these upfront than to face fines or worse – an accident – later. When in doubt, consult a local pool contractor or inspector on what’s required to make your container pool fully code-compliant and safe. (One more tip: Insurance. Let your homeowner’s insurance know you are adding a pool. Container pool or not, they need to know for liability coverage. Some insurers might ask about the type of pool and safety features. Having your permit and inspection sign-offs will help reassure them everything is above board.) Maintenance and Longevity of Container Pools One of the big questions homeowners have is how long a container pool will last and what kind of upkeep it needs. The good news is that a well-built container pool can last for decades – often 20+ years – and maintenance is comparable to other modern pools (and in some ways easier). Let’s break down the key factors: Lifespan of the Structure At its core, the container pool is made of thick Corten steel , which is known for durability. Shipping container walls are designed to resist weather and heavy loads. If properly protected from constant water contact, the steel structure itself can easily last 30 years or more. The main threat to lifespan is corrosion (rust), so preventing that is crucial: As we discussed, a quality container pool ensures that water never touches bare steel – via liners, coatings, and exterior paint. The steel is either completely encapsulated (inside by the waterproof liner and outside by paint/foam) or at least very well coated. Under these conditions, the steel won’t rust appreciably. In fact, Corten steel forms a patina that protects it if it’s exposed to weather intermittently – but a pool is constant water, so you rely on the liners. Weak points over time are any penetrations (skimmer cutouts, etc.) and welds. These should be inspected every so often. If you see any rust streak or bubbling paint on the exterior, address it promptly (sand it down and repaint) so it doesn’t spread. This is typical maintenance for something metal – much like caring for a steel boat or tank. If you start with a new or one-trip container, you’re not dealing with pre-existing rust. Older containers (used for many years at sea) might have unseen thin spots or corrosion that could shorten life, which is why reputable builders prefer newer units for pools. Assuming good materials, expect a lifespan of 20–30 years for the container pool with proper care. Some may last longer; for instance, an expertly built and maintained container pool could potentially go 40+ years, but since this trend is relatively new, we’re still seeing the first ones approach 10-15 years old now. So far, reports are promising. Interior Surface and Pool Liner Durability The interior finish of the pool (fiberglass, vinyl, etc.) has its own lifespan: Fiberglass Shell: If your container pool uses a fiberglass insert, that material is known for longevity. Fiberglass pools often last 25+ years with minimal issues. The gelcoat surface might eventually need refinishing after a couple decades if it dulls, but often not. Fiberglass is very crack-resistant as long as it’s supported (and in a container pool it’s usually well-supported by the steel shell). Many manufacturers tout that fiberglass-lined container pools “don’t need resurfacing or liner replacements” like other pools. You might just need to occasionally buff or patch any surface scratches. Vinyl Liner/Membrane: High-quality liners can last 15–20 years before needing replacement, sometimes longer if well cared for. Eventually, vinyl can develop some small cracks or discoloration. The nice thing is that replacing a liner is straightforward (much like in a vinyl inground pool) and not terribly costly compared to, say, re-plastering concrete. Some container pool companies use very thick specialty membranes that advertise even longer life than standard vinyl liners. Regularly check for any spots coming loose or tiny leaks once the liner gets older. Epoxy Paint Coating: If the pool interior is just epoxy-coated steel, expect to repaint every few years. Even the best marine epoxy might only hold up ~5 years in perfect condition before needing touch-ups, and some reports suggest rust can appear in as soon as 1–2 years if the coating has any voids. Because of this, painted interiors are usually considered a short-term solution – you would likely add a proper liner later if you start with paint. In any case, monitor painted surfaces diligently; the moment you see rust or bubbling, you’ll need to drain and repair. Equipment Maintenance Container pools use standard pool equipment (pump, filter, heater, etc.), so maintenance there is no different than any pool: Pump & Filter: Clean or replace filter cartridges as recommended (typically clean monthly, replace annually or as needed). If sand filter, backwash periodically. Pumps should be checked for proper flow and leaks; a pump can last ~8-12 years before the motor might need replacement. Since container pools often come with energy-efficient pumps, take advantage of running them on low speed for energy savings and longevity. Sanitization Systems: If you have a saltwater chlorine generator (SWG), be mindful of the salt’s effect on steel (some builders advise against salt systems due to corrosion potential on any exposed metal). Otherwise, chlorine tabs or liquid feeders need regular refills. UV or ozone systems require bulb replacements every so often. Follow the manufacturer’s schedule. Heating: If you use a gas heater or heat pump, maintain it per normal pool guidelines (flush heat exchangers, etc.). The insulated nature of container pools means you might strain heaters less, but still winterize or service them annually. Plumbing and Fittings: Because the pool is a self-contained unit, inspect the visible pipes and connections for drips. Vibration during transport or settling could loosen something slightly. Usually, once it’s set up, it’s stable – just keep an eye out when you do your routine checks. Routine Cleaning and Care Just like any pool, container pools need regular cleaning and water care: Skimming & Vacuuming: The smaller surface area means skimming leaves and debris is quick. You might manually skim daily or use a small pool robot vacuum weekly to keep the bottom clean. Luckily, smooth fiberglass or vinyl surfaces make it harder for algae and dirt to cling, so cleaning tends to be easier than, say, a rough concrete pool. Brushing: It’s still good to brush the walls now and then (especially corners or around steps) to prevent any biofilm buildup. Again, smooth walls mean you won’t brush as much as a porous surface pool. Chemical Balancing: Because container pools typically hold less water (many are 5,000–10,000 gallons, whereas big pools can be 20,000+ gallons), you’ll use fewer chemicals overall. You still need to maintain proper chlorine (or other sanitizer) and pH, alkalinity, etc. The water volume is smaller, which means it can actually change chemistry faster (less buffering volume), so keep a close eye especially in hot weather or heavy use. Testing the water at least weekly (if not more) is advised. Many owners find it quite manageable – some even say a container pool is easier to keep balanced than a big pool, due to the insulated walls and smoother surface (less algae growth means less chlorine demand). Winterizing: In colder climates, you should winterize a container pool just like any pool. That may involve either (a) draining the water below the skimmer level and blowing out lines, then covering it, or (b) keeping it running with a freeze protection mode (some folks with heated container pools keep them operational year-round). The steel container itself, if insulated and empty, can tolerate freeze/thaw cycles fine – it’s more the equipment and water you worry about. Always follow your manufacturer’s winterization guide. One thing to note: container pools often have integrated plumbing that’s harder to access, so built-in drain valves and a good cover are your friends in winter. Maintenance Checklist To keep things simple, here’s a quick container pool maintenance checklist you can follow: Daily/Weekly: Skim leaves and debris off the surface. Empty the skimmer basket. Test water chemistry (at least chlorine and pH weekly; pH may need more frequent adjustment due to small volume). Brush walls and steps lightly to prevent any film (weekly). Run the pump on the recommended cycle (many run a few hours a day; with a variable speed pump, possibly 8+ hours on low speed for constant circulation). Monthly: Deep clean or replace filter media (hose off cartridge filters; backwash sand filters if pressure rises). Check water chemistry in detail (test alkalinity, calcium hardness, and stabilizer levels). Inspect equipment for any small leaks or odd noises. If using chlorine tabs, check the chlorinator or floater supply. Seasonally: At season start, deep clean the pool (vacuum any settled debris, polish any scuffs on fiberglass). Lubricate O-rings on pump and filter as needed. Before winter, decide on closing method: either winterize (lower water, blow lines, add antifreeze in lines, cover pool) or maintain operation with freeze protection if using year-round. Remove any accessories that shouldn’t freeze (like a hand skimmer or cleaning equipment). Annually: Inspect the interior liner/shell closely for any damage or wear. Patch any small liner issues immediately. Drain a bit of water and refill (partial water replacement) if TDS or stabilizer levels have crept too high over the year. If painted exterior, touch up any scratches or chips to keep the steel fully protected. Consider a professional service call for a tune-up if you’re not DIY-inclined – they can clean the filter, inspect the heater, etc., to ensure all is well. Overall, many owners find container pools to be low-maintenance relative to older pool types. The combination of a non-porous interior (less algae) and often smaller size means less time spent on upkeep. As one review put it, having a fiberglass-lined container pool “doesn’t require resurfacing or liner replacements” for a long time and needs only routine cleaning. Of course, no pool is maintenance-free – but container pools won’t burden you with tasks like acid-washing plaster or frequently vacuuming out plaster dust, etc. If you maintain good water chemistry and address minor issues promptly, your container pool should provide many years of enjoyment with relatively light upkeep. Container Pools vs. Traditional Pools: How Do They Compare? You might be wondering how container pools stack up against more conventional pool types (like concrete/gunite, fiberglass, or vinyl liner pools). The answer is that container pools offer some distinct advantages, but also have some limitations. Here’s a point-by-point comparison to help you understand the differences: Cost Container pools are generally mid-range in cost . They are more expensive than buying a basic above-ground pool kit or a DIY vinyl liner pool, but less expensive than a custom inground concrete (gunite) pool of similar size. In many cases, a fully installed container pool might run significantly less than a concrete pool – often on the order of 30-50% cheaper for a comparable size (because you save on labor and materials). However, compared to a one-piece preformed fiberglass pool shell , container pools might be in a similar price range or slightly more, depending on features. Concrete Pool Cost: Concrete pools (gunite or shotcrete) are the most expensive type of standard pool. They involve extensive site work and customization, which adds cost. They can easily cost two times what a container pool does, especially once you factor in custom shapes, decking, and longer build times (which can introduce cost overruns). Fiberglass Pool Cost: Fiberglass pools (traditional one-piece shells dropped into an excavation) are usually cheaper than concrete but can be comparable to container pool costs . Both fiberglass and container pools are delivered prefabricated; fiberglass shells might cost a bit less to buy, but the installation (crane, excavation, backfill) can bring costs close. Container pools often include more (like built-in steps, equipment, etc.) in the base price. Vinyl Liner Pool Cost: Vinyl liner inground pools can have a lower upfront cost than container pools, particularly if you go with a simple shape and DIY some work. But they have long-term costs (liner replacements) and are less durable overall. A vinyl pool might beat a container pool in initial price, but some people choose container for longevity and features. In summary, if you’re budgeting: a container pool is not a bargain-basement purchase , but it can give you many high-end features at a more palatable cost than a full concrete build. You’re paying for a high-quality prefab product rather than tons of custom on-site labor. One thing to note: your site prep (concrete pad, electrical hookup, crane delivery) will add to total cost, so keep those in mind. For specific pricing examples or to explore models, you can check our pricing page for more details. Installation Time This is where container pools shine. The installation time is dramatically shorter and more predictable than building a pool from scratch: A container pool can often be manufactured in a few weeks at the factory (while you prepare your site), and then installed in a matter of days once delivered. Many owners have gone from delivery to swimming in under a week. In contrast, a traditional inground concrete pool typically takes 8–12 weeks (2–3 months) or even longer. There’s excavation, forming, plumbing, steel rebar, gunite shooting, curing time, plastering, etc., and weather delays can slow it further. Even fiberglass pools, which come pre-made, still require digging, setting, backfilling, plumbing, and concrete work around – usually several weeks start to finish. Vinyl liner pools also involve excavation, wall assembly, concrete floor, liner fitting, etc., which takes multiple weeks. With a container pool, the disruption to your yard and life is minimal . You won’t have a construction crew banging away for months. Once the crane places the pool and it’s hooked up, you’re essentially done. This is a huge plus if you value convenience or want a pool for an event/by a certain date. It’s why some have called container pools the solution for people who want to “swim this summer, not next summer.” Durability and Structure Container Pool: Built from an industrial-grade steel box , these pools are inherently sturdy. The steel walls don’t crack like concrete can. They can handle ground movement fairly well (especially the shorter 20' ones) since the structure acts as one unit. The addition of liners and coatings protects the steel from corrosion, and spray foam can add even more rigidity. Essentially, a container pool is engineered to be very tough – after all, shipping containers are meant to be stacked 8+ high loaded with tons of goods, and endure storms at sea. That strength, when adapted to a pool, means you have a robust shell. However, vigilance against rust is the trade-off. If any part of the waterproofing system fails, the steel could start to rust at that spot. The good news is this is preventable with proper construction and maintenance (many container pools have zero rust issues long-term). In terms of longevity , as noted, expect a couple of decades of service at least, which is on par with other pool types. The container itself won’t “wear out” structurally in normal use – it’s more the liner or equipment that might need updates over time. Concrete Pool: Concrete (gunite) pools are very durable in the sense that the shell can last 50+ years. They are permanent structures of rebar and plastered concrete. But concrete is rigid and can develop cracks , especially if there’s ground movement or poor installation. Freeze-thaw cycles can be harsh on concrete pools if winterized incorrectly. Typically, concrete pools need resurfacing (re-plastering or a new finish) every ~10–15 years, as the plaster or aggregate surface degrades. That’s a major maintenance event and cost. Additionally, concrete is rougher, so it can harbor algae more easily in its pores if not well maintained. Fiberglass Pool: Fiberglass shells are extremely durable in terms of the material (no rust, no need to refinish often, usually no cracking). But the key with fiberglass pools is the installation – if not backfilled or supported correctly, they can warp or shift. A container pool with a fiberglass lining actually marries fiberglass’s benefits with the steel support around it, which is a nice combo. Standard fiberglass inground pools last a long time (25+ years) with minimal upkeep on the shell, just some potential fading or small repairs on the gelcoat. Vinyl Pool: The vinyl liner is the weak link – it’s durable but will definitely need replacing roughly every 7–10 years on average. The wall structure of vinyl pools (often steel or polymer panels) can also corrode or degrade over a few decades. So vinyl pools have a solid lifespan (the structure might go 30 years) but you do rebuild parts periodically. Winner: It depends on what you value. If we’re talking no structural failure , concrete might win (it’s not going to structurally fail easily, but it might crack). Container pools won’t crack, but you have to control rust. Fiberglass won’t crack or rust, but you must install it right. Container pools combine a metal structure with other materials to mitigate downsides (steel + fiberglass/vinyl + foam), which gives a very balanced durability profile. They certainly hold up better than cheap above-ground pools or quick-set pools, and in many cases they’ll require less major maintenance over 20 years than a concrete pool would (since no resurfacing, etc.). Maintenance We covered maintenance in depth above, so just to compare: Container Pool Maintenance: Easier in some respects – smooth surfaces to clean, often insulated so easier to heat and keep balanced, smaller volume so fewer chemicals (though requires attention to not overcorrect chemistry). No need for acid washing or resurfacing. But you must be mindful of any rust spots forming and address them. Concrete Pool Maintenance: More intensive – regular brushing to avoid algae on rough surfaces, more chemicals often needed (plaster can affect pH initially, etc.), and inevitable resurfacing costs. If you like a very hands-off pool, concrete isn’t it; they can be made low-maintenance with automation but physically the surface is higher maintenance. Fiberglass Pool Maintenance: Easiest – similar to container with fiberglass interior . Very low effort to keep clean (algae doesn’t stick easily), and no special long-term upkeep except keeping water balanced to protect the gelcoat. Vinyl Pool Maintenance: Moderate – walls are smooth so cleaning is easy. But you have to be careful not to puncture liner, and occasionally deal with liner replacements which is a big event. Verdict: Container pools (with good liners) rank as low-maintenance . They are on par with fiberglass pools for ease of care, both being superior to concrete in that regard. If you absolutely dread maintenance, a container or fiberglass pool is attractive. Energy Efficiency Container pools often come insulated from the factory , giving them a big edge in energy efficiency: Insulation helps them retain heat much better than a traditional inground pool which has bare concrete or fiberglass against the earth. As noted, an insulated container pool can lose only ~0.5°F overnight vs a concrete pool losing 2°F or more. Over a season, that’s a lot of saved heat (and money). Owners in cooler climates notice that the water stays warmer longer after heating. Smaller volume also means if you do need to heat it, you’re heating fewer gallons. That can reduce heating costs dramatically – heating 7,000 gallons to a comfortable temperature costs a lot less than heating 20,000 gallons. Concrete pools can be insulated on sides somewhat, but rarely are; they act like a heat sink. Fiberglass pools hold heat better than concrete (fiberglass has some insulating properties and usually there’s backfill around), but most don’t have dedicated insulation unless the owner adds perimeter insulation during backfill. Vinyl pools, similar story – the vinyl itself doesn’t insulate much, you’re losing heat into the ground. If you plan to use solar heating or a heat pump, container pools respond quickly because of insulation and lower volume – they are very efficient to heat relative to their size. One could argue in very hot climates that insulation might keep the pool too warm in summer (but you can mitigate that with a shade sail or letting it cool at night). The only area where a container pool could lose efficiency is if uninsulated and above-ground – then it would lose heat to ambient air from all sides, which is actually worse than an inground pool that only has surface heat loss. But since most quality builds insulate the walls, above-ground container pools still hold heat well (just cover the top at night to prevent evaporation heat loss). In general, container pools win on energy efficiency if properly insulated. Design Flexibility (Size and Shape) Here’s one limitation of container pools: they are rectangular and have fixed dimensions (8 ft wide by 20 or 40 ft long, typically). If you want a freeform lagoon shape, a kidney bean pool, or a huge resort-style pool with varying widths, a single shipping container won’t do that. Traditional pools (concrete especially) win hands-down for custom shapes and sizes – you can shape concrete or even vinyl pools however you like, and add features like beach entries, vanishing edges, deep ends for diving, etc. Container Pool Size: Typically 8 feet internal width (a bit less inside after adding walls), and depth around 4 to 4.5 feet of water. You can’t easily make it much wider because containers come in 8-foot standard widths (some specialty containers are ~10 ft wide, but rare and expensive). You also can’t get much deeper water unless you modify the structure extensively – most container pools are not deep enough for safe diving or big slides. They are more for wading, cooling off, lap swimming (if 40ft long), or even converted to combined spa pools. Joining Containers: Some companies do offer multi-container pools (e.g., two containers side by side for a wider pool, or end to end for an extra-long pool, even L-shapes by combining sections). This requires serious engineering and custom fabrication (welding containers together, sealing joints, etc.). It’s possible but not common for residential projects due to cost. Still, it’s an option if you really love the concept but want a larger footprint – you could inquire with manufacturers who have done modular designs. Traditional Pool Freedom: Concrete pools can be any shape, any depth (want a 9-foot deep end for diving? done.), any width (you could have a 20-foot wide sprawling oasis if space and budget allow). Fiberglass pools come in a variety of shapes and sizes too, but you’re limited to what molds exist – still more variety than one or two container sizes, including kidney shapes, etc. Vinyl liner pools also allow custom shapes by how you arrange the wall panels. Aesthetics: Some people love the clean lines of a container pool – it gives a modern, minimalist look. Others might find it too “boxy” or industrial. With cladding and design, container pools can look quite upscale, but they will always be rectangular. If your dream pool vision is a naturalistic pond shape or a curvy resort pool, a container pool won’t achieve that look (unless you really hide the shape with creative landscaping). So, in terms of design flexibility, traditional pools (especially concrete) are the clear winner. Container pools are more limited, but within that modern rectangular aesthetic, you can still do a lot with finishes and surrounding design. For many homeowners who have small or narrow yards, the container pool’s shape actually fits perfectly, so the limitation isn’t a downside for them but rather a smart use of space. Portability and Reuse One unique benefit of container pools: they are relatively portable . If you move houses, in theory you could crane the pool back out and take it with you, or sell it and have it transported elsewhere. This isn’t something you can do with a concrete or vinyl in-ground pool (those are permanent). Even a fiberglass pool, once in the ground with concrete around, is not realistically movable without destroying the surrounding yard. Now, let’s be clear: just because you can move a container pool doesn’t mean it’s trivial or cheap to do so. You’d need to reverse some of the installation (especially if it’s inground – excavate around it). You’d need a crane again, and a truck, etc. But it’s possible. In fact, if you installed it fully above-ground or semi and kept it fairly accessible, moving it is not much different than the initial install process in reverse. This portability also means a container pool can have resale value . You could sell the unit to someone else if you decide you no longer want it, and they can use it at their site (whereas there’s basically no market for “used concrete pools”!). Some folks have even repurposed container pools – e.g., if it’s no longer wanted as a pool, it could theoretically be converted again (maybe back to storage or cut into something else). But most will remain pools. So, if you like flexibility or hate the idea of leaving an expensive pool behind if you relocate, container pools give you an edge. They are considered personal property in some cases (especially if above-ground), rather than an immovable improvement. Environmental Impact Using a repurposed shipping container is often marketed as an eco-friendly choice . It does have some environmental benefits: Recycling: It utilizes an existing steel structure, saving the energy and resources that would go into producing new steel or concrete for a pool shell. There are thousands of surplus shipping containers in the world, so turning one into a pool is a creative recycling solution. Less Material, Less Water: Container pools are usually smaller and use less water (good for water conservation). They also often require less concrete overall (maybe just a slab or footings, vs. tons of concrete for a gunite pool and deck). Energy Efficiency: As discussed, the insulation can save energy on heating. Also, because of smaller volume, they may use fewer chemicals and less electricity to pump/filter (shorter pipe runs, etc.). HomeGuide notes that container pools typically use standard pool equipment and thus have similar ongoing costs, but the efficient design and insulation can reduce chemical and energy usage modestly. Traditional pools, especially concrete, have a larger carbon footprint to build (a lot of cement, excavation, etc.), although once built, their usage footprint depends on how they’re operated (you could theoretically insulate a concrete pool or cover it to be efficient too). No pool is perfectly “green” – they all use water, chemicals, and energy – but container pools make a case for being a bit greener by reusing materials and being compact and efficient. If sustainability is a priority, ensure your container pool builder follows eco-friendly practices (e.g., properly disposing of any waste, using low-VOC coatings, etc.). Also, you can enhance any pool’s eco-friendliness by using a solar cover, LED lights, energy-efficient pumps, and salt/chlorine alternatives as appropriate. Resale Value and Property Value Installing any pool can affect your property value. A well-done container pool can be a selling point for the right buyer: it’s a unique feature that can make your home stand out. Some real estate experts note that adding a pool (especially one that is visually appealing and low-maintenance) can raise a home’s value or at least its desirability, particularly in warmer regions. For container pools: Pros for Resale: If the buyer likes modern design, they may love it. The story of it being eco-friendly and cost-efficient might attract tech-savvy or environmentally conscious buyers. It certainly differentiates your home’s listing photos! Additionally, if it’s removable, some buyers might see that as a plus (the pool could be taken out if they absolutely don’t want it). Cons for Resale: On the flip side, a very traditional-minded buyer might see a container pool as odd or worry about durability (“is this experimental?”). However, as they become more common, this concern will lessen. Ensuring the pool area looks well-integrated (with nice landscaping/decking) will make it feel like a permanent luxury addition, not a temporary novelty. Compared to traditional pools, a container pool likely adds value in a similar ballpark as a fiberglass pool would – maybe not as much as an extravagant concrete pool with a full outdoor living area, but certainly it’s an asset, not a liability, if done well. Also consider location: in some neighborhoods, any pool is a plus; in others, it can be neutral or even slightly reduce the buyer pool (pun intended) because some folks don’t want pool maintenance. But given container pools tend to target a hip, younger demographic, if your area’s buyers align with that, it can only help. Summary of Comparison To sum it up, here’s a quick comparison chart of container pools versus other pool types on key factors:
Shipping container pool: a deck with pool, ocean view, graphic about worth.
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Backyard pools have always been a symbol of relaxation, family fun, and summertime luxury—but in 2025, homeowners are ditching traditional pool options in favor of something smarter, sleeker, and surprisingly affordable: shipping container pools . At Midwest Container Pools , we’ve seen a major surge in interest as more people across the country discover the benefits of container pools. Whether it’s the modern design, fast installation, or long-term durability, container pools are quickly becoming the go-to choice for homeowners who want more pool for their money. In this blog, we’ll dive into why container pools are booming in 2025 and why now might be the perfect time to get one in your own backyard. 1. Fast, Hassle-Free Installation One of the biggest reasons container pools are taking off is speed . Traditional inground pools can take 8 to 12 weeks or more to install, with heavy excavation, inspections, and weather delays slowing things down. But with a container pool from Midwest Container Pools? We build your pool off-site , delivering it as a complete, finished unit. That means: No major digging or construction Minimal disruption to your yard A full backyard transformation in just a few days Homeowners in 2025 want convenience—and container pools deliver. 2. Budget-Friendly Luxury Let’s face it: traditional pools are expensive. Concrete builds can easily run $80,000 to $100,000+ , and that's before landscaping, fencing, or extras. Container pools give you that same high-end feel at a fraction of the price . With most models ranging from $35,000 to $65,000 , you get: A premium fiberglass finish Built-in steps, benches, and lighting A pool that looks custom without the custom cost In 2025, smart spending is top of mind for homeowners—and container pools offer incredible value without sacrificing quality. 3. Energy Efficiency That Saves You Money Homeowners are also getting more eco-conscious. A pool that wastes energy—and runs up utility bills—isn’t cutting it anymore. That’s where Midwest Container Pools leads the way. We insulate every container pool with closed-cell spray foam , locking in heat and reducing energy use. Combined with energy-efficient heaters and smart automation, our pools are designed to keep operating costs low. You get: Quicker heat-up times Longer heat retention Lower monthly energy bills It's a win for your wallet and the planet. 4. Modern, Minimalist Style Container pools offer a clean, industrial aesthetic that fits perfectly with today’s design trends. Whether your home is modern, rustic, or something in between, these pools stand out in all the right ways . And with Midwest Container Pools, you’re not stuck with a basic steel box. We offer: Exterior cladding in wood, composite, or stone finishes Acrylic window panels for a luxury look LED lighting, custom tile, and more Integrated stairs, benches, and tanning ledges In 2025, homeowners want function and fashion , and container pools check both boxes. 5. Durability That Lasts for Decades Originally built to survive ocean freight and harsh weather, shipping containers are tough by design . But we take it a step further. Each Midwest Container Pool is: Reinforced with closed-cell foam for extra strength Lined with fiberglass to create a watertight, low-maintenance interior Built to withstand freezing winters and blazing summers Forget cracking concrete or tearing liners. These pools are built to last—and they’re backed by a team with decades of experience in pool construction and spray foam application. 6. Portable, Flexible, and Future-Proof Here’s a benefit traditional pools can’t touch: portability . Moving to a new home? You can bring your container pool with you. Need to rearrange your backyard layout in a few years? No problem. Want to rent your pool to guests on platforms like Swimply? Now you can, with ease. In 2025, people want flexibility in how they use their outdoor spaces—and container pools deliver. 7. Easier Maintenance = More Swim Time Let’s be honest: nobody enjoys spending their weekend skimming, scrubbing, and balancing chemicals. That’s why our container pools are lined with fiberglass , which: Prevents algae buildup Resists stains and discoloration Requires less brushing and chemical use Pair it with a compact, high-efficiency filtration system, and you’re spending more time swimming—and less time maintaining. 8. Permitting Made Easier Permitting is one of the biggest headaches when installing a traditional pool. It can involve: Site surveys Excavation plans Multiple inspections HOA or zoning approvals In many cities and states, container pools qualify as modular units or above-ground structures , which often means: Faster permit approvals Fewer restrictions Less red tape We always recommend checking with your local building department, but in 2025, many cities are embracing container pools as a streamlined alternative to traditional builds. 9. Great for Small Yards and Urban Homes Not every backyard has room for a sprawling, freeform pool. That’s where the compact footprint of a container pool shines. Our 20’ and 40’ models fit easily in tight spaces while still offering plenty of room for swimming, lounging, and soaking. Perfect for: City backyards Side-yard installs Rooftops and patios Modern Airbnb properties And because they can be placed above ground or partially recessed, installation options are flexible—even in tight or tricky spaces. 10. Built by Experts Who Know Pools Inside and Out At Midwest Container Pools, we didn’t just jump on a trend—we’ve been building pools since 2005, and we’ve seen every type of pool construction you can imagine. We took that experience and used it to fix the flaws we saw in early container pool designs. Our approach uses: Spray foam insulation for structure and heat retention Fiberglass linings that outperform rubber coatings Custom-built shells, not retrofitted junk containers In 2025, we’re setting a new standard in the container pool industry—and homeowners are noticing. Is a Container Pool Right for You? If you want: ✅ A pool that installs in days, not months ✅ A modern look that turns heads ✅ Lower upfront and long-term costs ✅ Long-lasting durability ✅ Less maintenance and more enjoyment ✅ A unique, conversation-starting backyard feature Then a Midwest Container Pool might be exactly what you’ve been looking for. Ready to Make a Splash in 2025? The container pool boom isn’t just a trend—it’s a smarter way to swim, soak, and enjoy your outdoor space. Whether you’re in the suburbs, the city, or out in the country, we ship nationwide and make the process easy from start to finish. 👉 Contact us today to get a free quote and start customizing your perfect pool.
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